LAPIDARY DIGEST
Administered by Hale Sweeny (hale2@mindspring.com)
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This list digest contains the following message subjects:

1. LapDigest News for Issue No. 158 - Monday 7/20/98
2. NEW: Need Manual for Highland Park Cab Unit, B-12
3. NEW: Charoite
4. NEW: Tumble Finishing Cabs
5. NEW: Goo-Gone
6. RE: Need a Source for Gaspeite Rough*
7. RE: Need a Source for Gaspeite Rough
8. RE: Need a Source for Gaspeite Rough
9. RE: Refurbishing Old Lapidary Equipment
10. BIO: Steve Swartz
11. BIO: Giovanna Fregni
12. AD: Tumblers, Books and Other Lapidary Supplies


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<MSG1>

Subject: LapDigest News for Issue No. 158 - Monday 7/20/98

Lapidarys in the Pittsburgh area are invited to demonstrate
the lapidary arts (e.g.,cabbing, faceting, etc.) at the
Carnegie Gem and Mineral Show this coming weekend, August 28,
29 and 30, 1998. For further information on the show, see the
website at: http://www.clpgh.org/cmnh/gem show/index.htm. If
you can help with demonstrations, write Gary VanGelder at
GaryVG@aol.com and get further information. This would be a
great opportunity to get to know a wide number of others in
the hobby in the Pittsburgh area!


The file "Archive2.txt" has been updated to include all
thread items through Issue 157 - and that is really
up-to-date!! I have already started adding more thread files
in the Archives, and have just added:

(RetensionStraightenSawBlades.txt)
(SelectCabMachineCabMate.txt)
(WorkingFireObsidian.txt)
(ApacheTears.txt)
(StabilizingNevadaOpal.txt)
(RefurbishingOldEquipment.txt)
(CabThickness.txt)
(SawSludge.txt)
(AboutDiamondWheelsBelts.txt
(PolishingAmber.txt)
(SugiliteRough.txt)
(LapidaryGluesAndCements.txt)-updated

There are two upcoming gem shows in the Southeast you should
know about. First, a big show in Franklin, NC which has three
locations (July 23-26), and one at Spruce Pine, called the
Grassy Creek Show (July 26-Aug 2). Mark Case, a member of this
list, will be showing there and invites everyone to visit - he
will be on Row 1. I will be going to the Franklin shows; if
anyone else on the list is going and will be there this
weekend, let me know and lets chat - face to face! Earl? Jim?

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<MSG2>

Subject: NEW: Need Manual for Highland Park Cab Unit, B-12


I bought a Highland Park combo saw/grinder/polisher through
a want ad, but it did not have an owner's manual. The model
number is difficult to read, but I think it is "B 12." I do
need the manual, being new to the hobby, and not knowing
anything about anything!!

If you have this manual, I will gladly buy it from you or I
will pay for xeroxing a copy, if you do not wish to part with
the original. Any help you can give me will be greatly
appreciated. Please contact me at the e-mail address below.

jim
<wager@juno.com>
-------------------------------------------------------------
Jim: I suggest you contact Diamond Pacific, who just bought
Contempo, who had earlier bought out Highland Park. Diamond
Pacific is located at 2620 W. Main Street, Barstow, CA 92311;
their telephone number is 1-800-253-2954. They may not have
a copy, so I hope the members of the list can find one for
you! hale
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<MSG3>

Subject: NEW: Charoite

I've just returned from a business trip to southern Siberia,
Irkutsk, near Lake Baikal. On a visit to the lake there
were some street traders selling some fairly crude carvings
of animals produced from nephrite and a material that I'd
never heard of before and which they called "charoite" and
which they say is peculiar to that location. It seems to be
of a similar hardness and texture to nephrite but the colour
varies in swirling bands from a dark amethyst to almost
white. It also has inclusions of other minerals, including
what looks like pyrites. The small pieces that I brought
back have been slabbed and have taken a good polish.

I've been unable to identify the material from any of my
reference books so does anyone have any idea what it might be?

>From a point of interest some of the other materials that are
said to be available in the locality are amazonite, carnelian,
lapis, tourmaline and petrified wood, but we didn't see any of
these.

Should you consider going in search of these materials be
prepared for a long, very hot (or very cold, depending on the
time of year) and uncomfortable journey. You'd also be well
advised to take an interpreter as very few people speak
English.

Cheers
Barry Longbottom
<barrylongbottom@e-mail.msn.com>
"non-commercial republish permission granted"
-------------------------------------------------------------
Barry: Charoite is calcium potassium silicate, with Hardness
of 5-6 and density or specific gravity of about 2.6. My copy
of The Mineral Database indicates that it has three cleavages,
in three directions, is translucent, and occurs in a massive
habit. It was first imported into US in 1970s. Color range is
lilac to lavender to purple with those beautiful patterns you
mentioned. The rough material is actually a rock with
charoite and other minerals. According to Zeitner (GEM and
LAPIDARY MATERIALS, GeoScience Press), charoite has been used
in Russia for carving large vases, etc. She recommends cold
dopping, and working with diamond under water spray; she adds
that diamond paste (1/2 micron) gives a good polish.

I have never worked this material, so I don't know. Perhaps
others who have cut this material can add some further
information.
hale
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<MSG4>

Subject: NEW: Tumble Finishing Cabs

Sometimes I rough out a bunch of cabs and wish I could just
throw them in a tumbler to finish them. Is there a way to
do this? Could I take them through 200 grit sander and then
polish them in the tumbler? What grit should I use; should I
use any filler? Anybody have experience with this?

Steve & Terrah Swartz
Carson City Nevada
steverite@compuserve.com
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<MSG5>

Subject: NEW: Goo-Gone

(The following was printed in Facetor's Digest, and reproduced
here with permission. It appeared during a discussion of
adhesives, and I thought it might appeal to many of us.)

I got some "Goo Gone" at the hardware store for about $3.00.
It has wiped away every adhesive I've tried it on. It's even
supposed to work on gum. It smells lemony and rinses right off
with water.

Steven Case
<Steven.G.Case@usa.xerox.com>
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<MSG6>

Subject: RE: Need a Source for Gaspeite Rough*

(was: Want Some Gaspeite)


I don't have a specific dealer for locating gaspeite but I
thought I would throw my 2 cents in any ways. I, too, was
looking for gaspeite at Tucson last year and it was fairly
plentiful. However most of what i saw would have to have been
treated before using. It seems a new area was uncovered and
while it had great color it was soft and not easy to work
with. I never spent the time to try the usual tests to see if
any of it was hard enough be worth paying the price they were
asking for it and it was expensive.

p.s. Isn't there an easier way of saying this? It doesn't
exactly roll off the tongue?

Michael
Metalworks@aol.com
noncommercial republish permission granted
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<MSG7>

Subject: RE: Need a Source for Gaspeite Rough


Dennis Garrett in Bloomington, Indiana has a supply of
Gaspeite. His business name is "The Garrett House" which
should be in the phone directory. The last time there I saw
mostly slabs that were semi-polished on one side.

Mark Walby
<Mark_Walby@3com.com>
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<MSG8>

Subject: RE: Need a Source for Gaspeite Rough


I have been just sitting on the sidelines just reading the
list from time to time, but feel I must add my opinion here.

Please use care in cutting gaspeite, it is a nickel carbonate
and the dust can cause serious health problems. You should
avoid contact with your skin if at all possible. Please ask
your supplier about how to cut this material safely before
you start. It is a beautiful material when cut, but has a bit
of risk getting there.

Joe B.
"Richard Schuler"
<schu@gwis.com>
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<MSG9>

Subject: RE: Refurbishing Old Lapidary Equipment


Hi,

If you have some really tired and rusty lapidary equipment,
you might want to try this. It involves the use of some
products usually used for tough use in automotive restoration.
The two products used are POR-15 and POR-15 chassis paint. A
catalog is available at 1-800-457-6715. A half pint can of
each is about right for this job.

I had an old (25 years) arbor with a sheet steel pan. The
thing worked great, but it leaked like a sieve, and the rust
was the only thing holding it together. I decided to try
POR-15, because I had used it in restoring cars, and it was
great. I removed the wheels, and used a stiff wire brush and
hot soapy water to clean the inside and outside of the pan.
After a couple of passes with the soap and brush all that was
left was rust and holes. In case you're not familiar with
POR-15, its big selling point is that you can apply it over
rust - and it will fill holes. Turn the pan upside down and
put masking tape on the bottom side where the holes are to
keep the paint from running through. Set the pan upright and
level it. Paint the bottom and sides of the pan with POR-15.
Let it flow out a little until the holes are not showing, and
you have a good gloss coat on the whole surface. Let it dry
thoroughly. Remove the masking tape carefully. If any of the
holes are not filled, repeat the process just in the vicinity
of the hole(s).

Once you have a good coating on the inside of the pan, coat
the bottom of the pan and let it dry thoroughly. Next, use an
SOS pad to scuff the surface of the POR-15, and rinse it
clean. Coat over the POR-15 with the chassis paint. This will
protect the POR-15, which is meant to be an undercoat. This
is not a temporary fix. The pan will not rust again. Ever.

This should work on anything that is steel/iron and is prone
to rust.

Robert L. Braun
<rbraun@dnai.com>
"noncommercial republish permission granted"
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<MSG10>

Subject: BIO: Steve Swartz

My name is Steve Swartz.

Always attracted to rocks, my wife and I decided to get
serious on a vacation to southern Utah the summer before last.
Following maps and stories in a rockhound book we collected a
lot of rough stone. Joined the Oxnard Gem & Mineral Society,
took 'great' classes in lapidary and silversmithing and
started acquiring used equipment to set up a home shop. Now
after turning out hundreds of cabs, I'm starting to get more
and more into silversmithing and carving gems and have moved
north to Carson City, Nevada.

By the way: Hello to all our friends in Oxnard who get this
list. Send me some e-mail.

Hello to all of our new friends here at the Reno Gem and
Mineral Society.

Steve & Terrah Swartz
Carson City Nevada
steverite@compuserve.com
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<MSG11>

Subject: BIO: Giovanna Fregni

Hi, I just wanted to introduce myself to you all. My name is
Giovanna Fregni. I'm a rank amateur when it comes to
computers, but I have been doing lapidary work for a number
of years. I've been supporting myself as a freelance jeweler
for even longer. Right now I'm using a Hi-Tech Diamond
Products lapidary wheel. It's a turntable type of setup. I'm
very happy with it, since it makes far less mess than most
units. It's also easy to clean, lightweight and portable, so
I can take it to shows for demonstrations. I also have the
usual assortment of tumblers and trim saws and oddball
equipment that seems to accumulate in our hobby... I also
have a faceting machine and finally taught myself to facet
(I know, that's another group, but having accomplished this
at my age seems worth a brag.).

I was tour director for the Minnesota Mineral Club until my
term was up last year, now I'm in charge of education and
publicity. The main focus of our club is field trips. I just
got back from our Thunder Bay field trip, where I brought
back tons of amethyst and even found some ametrine. I also
spent some time at Spectrolite Mountain in Marathon, Ontario,
where I brought back a lot of good cutting material. If
anyone is interested in information about the mines up there,
I'd be glad to forward the information.

Giovanna Fregni
<kfletcher@citilink.com>
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<MSG12>

Subject: AD: Tumblers, Books and Other Lapidary Supplies

For tumbler information and books on gem stones as well as
all other areas, visit our web site at:
http://www.jaderockshop.com

jrs@jaderockshop.com
Permission to copy any where any time.
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