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This list digest contains the following message subjects:

1. LapDigest Issue No. 123 - Mon 3/9/98
2. NEW: Eliminating Flats
3. RE: Another motor question
4. RE: Searching for Material for an Eagle's Eye
5. RE: Searching for Material for an Eagle's Eye
6. RE: Searching for Material for an Eagle's Eye
7. RE: Searching for Material for an Eagle's Eye
8. RE: Replacing a Burned-out Motor on a Genie
9. RE: Replacing a Burned-out Motor on a Genie
10. RE: Replacing a burned-out motor on a Genie


Subject: LapDigest Issue No. 123 - Mon 3/9/98

Excitement builds!! I just learned that there is a new
upgrade for the mailing list software, and I downloaded it
this past weekend, and is it ever different!!! This means I
will have to learn it all over again. But it does have some
nice new features which you will like, as it makes accessing
the Archives much easier. Expect some interruption to the
list sometimes in the next couple of weeks when I make a
change over.


Subject: NEW: Eliminating Flats

Good evening,

I make one-of-a-kind jewelry objects. I have recently gotten
involved with lapidary in order to supply myself with unusual
and unique stones for use in my jewelry (and I'm loving every
minute of it). I am using silicon carbide belts on 8"
0expandable drums up to 600 grit, then on to diamond spray on
resin belts for polishing. My preforms are all non calibrated
freeforms ranging in size from 3/4" to about 2" made from
petrified dinosaur bone, palm wood, and some different

Grinding and shaping go very smoothly. Now here is the
problem: no matter what I do, I can't eliminate all the flats
before polishing. As I move from 100 to 320 to 600 the larger
flats are simply replaced by a larger number of smaller flats,
no matter how many different ways I rotate the stone against
the wheel and no matter whether with a light touch or with a
lot of pressure. It seems like maybe the 8" wheels are
producing a surface speed in excess of what is needed for
such small size cabs. The cutting action seems too fast and
the drum does not "give" like I think it should. Am I
missing something here? Do I need to go to 6" drums or
possibly Nova wheels? Any help with this matter will be
greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Derek Morton

*****non commercial reprint permission granted*****

Subject: RE: Another motor question

Hi all

Just because an electric motor doesn't run does not mean
the motor is burned out. If the bearings are worn the rotor
[the turning part] does not sit properly inside the windings
[part that doesn't turn] and the motor will not start on it's

Turn the switch on and if you hear a hum but the motor
doesn't turn, give the wheel a turn by hand in the proper
direction. It will not start so quickly as to injure your
hand but instead slowly rev up to speed. On older motors,
sometimes only the starting capacitor needs replacing. Both of
these failures cost less to fix than rewinding the motor and
can be checked out at any rewinding shop, usually for free.

......Leo Doucet......NB Canada......

Subject: RE: Searching for Material for an Eagle's Eye

Four possible (although I'll admit pretty far-fetched)
choices for the material to be used; while I admit the
rarity of what is needed, still I have seen, years back and
in different places, stones that almost fit the bill, and
looking at these may also widen the search possibilities.

1. Lake Superior agate. While it's mostly violet, I have
seen some fine yellows and browns that might fill the bill.

2. Thomsonite.

3. Brazilian Agate. Again, rare, but sometimes the "Rayed
effect" you're looking for shows up. (But you might need a
dye job for the color, and bore a hole in the center for
black Jasper or Jade for the pupil)

4. (Really far-fetched) I have seen exactly one specimen of
"Black Hills Gold" which would probably have been perfect for
the job; if memory serves, it was about an inch square with a
1/16" perfectly round black spot right in the middle. But
where there's one, there may be more.

Ted Robles

Non-commercial reprint permission granted

Subject: RE: Searching for Material for an Eagle's Eye


If you finally decide to use tigereye.......

I made a channel work early-morning landscape scene for a
bola, and used tiger eye for the rays of the sun. I found
that I needed to have sequential slabs all cut from the same
rough chunk at the beginning, and laid out parallel to one
another in the exact order of sawing. Then the pattern for
each ray was superimposed on the slabs, in order, and in the
exact direction that they would appear in the channelwork
frame, so that when the rays were all cut and put in
position, they would all flash at the same time. One slab
got turned over accidentally and didn't flash with the
others and I didn't discover that till after the epoxy was
dry and the whole thing polished.

But to get a great flash, you will need to do the same thing,
but just don't turn over one or more of the slabs.. (smile)


non-commercial republish permission granted

Subject: RE: Searching for Material for an Eagle's Eye

I would say that Tiger Iron would almost certainly fit the
bill in this matter. The TigerEye material in it forms in
somewhat orbicular patterns, a lot of which would be small
enough for a ring, and you may even find the matrix of some
use in your project.

Gil Shea

"non-commercial republishing permission granted"

Subject: RE: Searching for Material for an Eagle's Eye

I have seen a type of tiger eye called "Honey tiger eye" with
a strong catseye effect that might work for your project.
Maybe you could try core drilling a piece of spectrolite for
your project. Chinese tigereye called pietersite may have the
effect you are looking for (expensive).Good luck Hans!


non-commercial republish permission granted

Subject: RE: Replacing a Burned-out Motor on a Genie

Also on the burned out genie motor; I have been advised not
to use a drop cord on any electric motor because of "copper
losses" in voltage drop of cord,and to always let the machine
run a couple of minutes after using. This supposedly helps to
throw water off the shaft bearings.


non-commercial republish permission granted

Subject: RE: Replacing a Burned-out Motor on a Genie

We have some Lortone motors on our web page. Take a look and
see if they might do.

Thanks BETTY and RUSS

Subject: RE: Replacing a burned-out motor on a Genie

Rutland Tool and Supply has the 1/4 hp., 1800 rpm, long shaft
Baldor buffer motors for $204.00 plus shipping. Rutland
catalog number: 2678 4114.

Phone 800-727-9787 to order or for technical advice.

Norm Winter
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