LAPIDARY ARTS and FACETERS DIGEST
Issue No. 309 - Friday, November 12, 2004
Moderated by: Thurmond Moore III
Committed to carrying on the fine works of
Hale Sweeny and Jerry Dewbre
Here is this week's issue.
Enjoy and have a great weekend.
Index to Today's Digest
01 RE: Diamond cutting
02 RE: Rust on laps
03 RE: Peridot
04 RE: Rust on laps
05 RE: Peridot
06 RE: Heat treating Zoisite
Subject: Re: Issue No. 308 - Friday, November 5, 2004
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 14:36:16 EST
In a message dated 11/5/2004 2:30:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
I spent about the price of a top end luxury motor car buying a
diamond faceting setup. 3 hp motor, 12" Meehanite iron lap, a
small selection of mechanical claws. I think with a lot of
practise I could have reduced faceting time to below the time it
takes to cut about 100 sapphires.
Got to agree have the whole shooting match sitting in the garage collecting
dust four station diamond faceting outfit paid a good price and gave it up.
I'll stick to my facetron
Subject: Rust on laps
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 12:08:40 -0800
From: "Gail Bumala" <email@example.com>
Thanks to everyone who responded to my request about rust on my
laps. Your advice has been invaluable and I appreciate everyone's
willingness to be of help. Hope I can return the favor sometime. Gail
Bumala, Sandy, Oregon, USA firstname.lastname@example.org
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 16:32:45 -0500
From: "Robert Rudd" <email@example.com>
Subject: Peridot comparison
Jerry wrote: I have cut a fair amount of San Carlos
I was trying to locate someone that could sell me a 1/2 to 1
kilo of San Carlos material. Anyone know someone that has
You can contact me off list if you would like!!!
Subject: rust on laps
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 17:01:41 -0600
From: "Larry" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
If you have rust on a course lap like 600 or bigger you won't have much
of a problem.
The problem comes when you have rust on fine laps like 1200 or smaller
grit and or you are working with a soft stone.
Then you get scratches a plenty. Rust is harder than some soft stones
and it will scratch.
Rust areas on a lap may even collect contamination and cause scratching
as the rust may have worked out or been flushed out and there may be a
hole in the lap surface which will catch grit or even allow the base
metal to contact your stone. If this happens you just as well chuck the
stone or lap or even both into the round file. That lap can't be
re-charged unless it is a copper surface layer which is thick enough to
take the grit. If it is a plated lap I would dump it quick.
Subject: RE Peridot
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 20:25:12 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
From: "Russ And Nat" <email@example.com>
I cannot say I have tried many locales of peridot, just what I have
found (in Australia) myself. It would probably be my favorite type of stone
to cut, color is generally apple green, with some darker green pieces found
occasionally. I find polishing is straight forward, and the finished stones
have an eye catching sparkle, even to non-faceting folk. Size is not
generally great with a 10-12mm finished stone around the maximum clean size
found, although while some people are cutting stones included to increase
finished size, they tend to be a bit lifeless for mine. I do not know what
is available commercially but I might be open to swap a piece(or two).
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2004 10:16:15 -0500
From: "Judy Ogden" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
I'am new to the lapidary arts and have a pile of questions that need
answers. Let me start with just 2. Recently I purchased the entire shop
of a gentleman , who now resides in that giant rock shop in the sky. I
have used both the trim and slab saws that I bought but, I don't care
for the cutting oil that I'am using. It is hard to see what I'am
cutting, because the oil is dark and the smell is less than pleasant.
I've been told that I could do any of the following. Change the oil
often.(Which is costly) Use kerosene in place of the oil. Use a
industrial lub. (the white water base kind) Use a mixture of water and
antifreeze. Use just water .or to use any of the above and not fill up
the tub to submerge the blade. Just direct a trickle the lubs onto the
blade. My second question is about trimming and polishing caps. I've
been told that I should trim, grind and prepolish dry. trim, grind and
polish wet or do everything with diamond pastes. Which methods are best?
As you can see. I've been gven plenty of advise but, not much
information as to why each of these methods are better than others. Any
constructive help will be welcome.
For saw lubricants go to the bottom of the home page and do a search of the site for
"saw lubricants". Personally I use pink RV antifreeze (not automotive, bad stuff) for
my large saws and water based lubes such as crystal cut or such in smaller trim saws .
Another tip that is usefull, Before you cut any porous stone with an oil based lube soak
it in water for a day or two to prevent oil from soaking into the rock.
I would NEVER trim, cut or prepolish ANY cab dry. I use mainly diamond but silicon carbide
belts for prepolish (well worn 400 grit) seem to work very well for quite a few different rock types.
As usual there are as many different methods as there are cutters.
Published about once a week, except holidays
Tempie Francis, Attorney at Law / Legal Advisor
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