LAPIDARY ARTS and FACETERS DIGEST
Issue No. 236 - Tuesday, October 28, 2003
Moderated by: Thurmond Moore III
Committed to carrying on the fine works of
Hale Sweeny and Jerry Dewbre
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Index to Today's Digest
01 RE: Precision torch
02 RE: Raytech Handpiece Binding
03 NEW: Don Clark where are you?
04 NEW: Cutting Datolite
05 RE: Raytech Handpiece Binding
06 NEW: book on Faceting in Portuguese wanted
Subject: can't cast
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 00:53:22 -0700
From: "jake" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
I read a post that the Precision torch, or oxygen/propane little torch can't
cast, meaning I take any of the smaller torches using propane and oxygen
(and the above). This isn't so. Of course they will not put out the volume
that a dedicated casting torch will. I do not know if someone told them
that, or they had bad results. First I own a Precision LP torch; I have no
financial stake in it, whatsoever, just own one. I have been meaning to
take it to the center at Riverdale as they have a centrifugal casting
machine. However as this is on Monday mornings I have not had the chance to
do so. So that someone will know what is going on, I told them when I first
asked about it, that if this was what was said of it was I would write about
it. Actually with the restriction I had (and others have, i.e. disposable
can) I am happy with the results and I am glad to mention it. Others have
of course found what works for them also; one got a hold of an oxygen
generator for that half ($100) of oxy/propane, some have little or no
restriction on the oxygen and use an oxy/propane torch. Although I think
this is better than those are for silver work, the usual choice is
air/acetylene. As for the Precision an article will be in December's Color
and Light. (The article mentioned below refers to another.)
Meanwhile (what follows dose not apply to this torch only, it is for the
others also) someone asked about how much can be cast with it, as I will not
be pushing the envelope anytime soon, I asked. Although this dose not answer
that, melting a pre-made alloy (easier) is far different than what
directions I got. (I had wondered what was the largest practical melt of
sterling for casting was.) Please note the Planerts are gold smiths. My
torch and the micro are not their real business although they do handle them
Regardless of torch, Precision, or that Smith Little Torch etc. (with right
tip), this is proper procedure, for alloying and then casting.
"We have successfully cast silver and gold alloys for normal workshop
applications. As for gold we are usually alloying around 30g 18ct Yellow
Gold at a time, never experiencing any problems. Alloying Sterling Silver
requires a large amount of heat over a longer period. Always preheat the
ingot to let the moisture evaporate to a bit more than handwarm, then
preheat the crucible until the inside is glowing. Remember to melt the fine
silver first and then fill in slowly the borax coated fine copper
(preferably small and thin pieces). Keep the crucible moving to ensure the
formation of a homogeneous alloy. In addition use a graphite stirring-rod
to stir the molten metal, to assist in mixing. This also helps to detect
solid copper parts. If necessary add a little more borax powder and keep
heating until the metal displays a mirror like surface and moves around
freely in the crucible. Make sure to keep the distance between flame and
metal the same while moving the crucible towards the ingot (should read
target, invest or mold) for casting.
Unsuccessful melting of metal is usually caused by:
An incorrect distance between flame and metal,
flame too small,
crucible not preheated,
copper added too early,
no flux used or
draught cooling the surface.
We will try out limits, when we melt again, probably next week. But don't
worry, if amounts cannot be included in your article. You have done very
well. There will always be someone unable to follow instructions and then
complaining about the product, not detecting the actual cause: lack of
Martin & Dvrte Planert
Subject: Regarding Raytech Handpiece Binding
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 09:28:54 -0500
From: "Tom Pyles" <email@example.com>
I had this happen last year and solved the problem with a little
oil, WD40, Sweing machine oil etc. Put a drop or two around the top of
the shaft that goes into the block below the index gear and also some on
the other end where the shaft emerges, rotate several times and let set
until the next day. This should do it.
Subject: Don Clark
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 10:15:48 -0500
From: "Frank lavin" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Does anyone know how to get in contact with Don Clark? He used to sell
colloidal silica for polishing which I would like to get a couple of
bottles. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi Frank, Try the IGS page owned by Don Clark at http://www.gemsociety.org
Subject: NEW: Cutting Datolite
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 09:52:20 -0600
From: "The Wendland's" <email@example.com>
I was wondering if anyone has had any experience in cutting datolite
cabochons? I found a couple small nodules on a recent trip to Michigan,
and would like to cut them as cabs. Usually, all I've ever seen them
cut is as halves or slabs. Thanks for any help.
Subject: Re:raytech binding
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 12:45:14 EST
dis-assemble the quill, sounds like the rotation collar may have gotten too
tight or corrosion inside the quill.. i've used liquid wrench to aid in
lubricating and loosening parts so i don't have to apply too much hand power. all
should go well. there maybe some corrosion in the quill which will be removed by
the liquid wrench. j. trusso woodstock ny
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 16:21:46 -0500 (EST)
From: firstname.lastname@example.org (Jack Denne)
Hi all. Am wondering if anyone,especially in the greater Toronto Canada
area knows of a Vargas type instruction book on Faceting in Portuguese?,
Where such could be obtained? Doesn't have to be so complete but would
be of help to a Portuguese person whose English is good but as a newbie
could benefit reading in her own language. TIA Jack Denne.
MESSAGES FORWARDED FROM HALE SWEENY
RESOURCES FOR LAPIDARIES:
PERSONALS: (General Lapidary and Faceting)
Lurking is fine, but participation is better for learning !
Post something from your experiences in gemcutting today!
TODAY'S FUNNY ~
Subject: TODAY'S FUNNY
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 01:26:46 -0600
To: LapidaryArtsDigest <email@example.com>
From: Doug Smith <firstname.lastname@example.org>
A French teacher was explaining to her College class that in French,
unlike English, nouns are designated as either masculine or feminine.
House is feminine "la maison." Pencil is masculine "le crayon."
A student asked, "What gender is 'computer'?"
Instead of giving the answer, the teacher split the class into two
groups-male and female-and asked them to decide for themselves whether
"computer" should be a masculine or a feminine noun. Each group was
asked to give four reasons for their recommendation.
The men's group decided that "computer" should definitely be of the
feminine gender (la computer) because:
1. No one but their creator understands their internal logic;
2. The native language they use to communicate with other computers is
incomprehensible to everyone else;
3. Even the smallest mistakes are stored in long term memory for
possible later review; and
4. As soon as you make a commitment to one, you find yourself spending
half your paycheck on accessories for it.
The women's group, however, concluded that computers should be masculine
(le computer) because:
1. In order to do anything with them, you have to turn them on;
2. They have a lot of data but still can't think for themselves;
3. They are supposed to help you solve problems, but half the time they
ARE the problem; and
4. As soon as you commit to one, you realize that if you had waited a
little longer, you could have gotten a better model.
The women won.
But... Women should always remember:
MEN CAN'T HELP IT!!!
TIDBITS AND REFLECTIONS~
Do not save your loving speeches
For your friends till they are dead;
Do not write them on their tombstones,
Speak them rather now instead.
LIST and WEBSITE INFO~
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