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LAPIDARY ARTS and FACETERS DIGEST
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Issue No. 134 - Tuesday May 27, 2003
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Moderated by: Thurmond Moore III
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Committed to carrying on the fine works of
Hale Sweeny and Jerry Dewbre
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POST TO EITHER LINK BELOW:
lapidary@caprock-spur.com
faceters@caprock-spur.com
====================================
VISIT OUR WEBSITE TODAY
http://www.gemcutters.org
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From the Moderator:

Hi Folks,  I almost got a vacation but lightning
hit our Video Head End Friday night. So much for
time off. LOL We have a good digest today. Enjoy.

Thurmond
====================================
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Index to Today's Digest

01  RE: Zircon, Orthoclase and Dolly
02  NEW: Speed Control D/C Motors
03  RE: Lava soap
04  RE: Spamming Dirtbag Alert. (Humor)
05  RE: Copper laps
06  NEW: Custom Faceting Machines
07  FS:  Beryl For Cabbing
08  NEW: Information needed concerning Kaemmererite
09  NEW: Faceted Stone Repairs & The Art of Cheating
10  RE: Faceters Symposium 2003

====================================
Message:01

Subject: Re: Issue No. 133 - Thursday May 22, 2003
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 23:41:11 -0500
To: LapidaryArtsDigest <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: Downey <alckytxn@swbell.net>

____
> Message:02
>
> Subject: Re: Issue No. 132 - Wednesday May 21, 2003
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 16:27:51 EDT
> To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com
> From: Rocksinhed@aol.com
>
> Hi Li-------------snip-----------------------------------------

  if it
> needs to be oriented ... Blue Zircon and Orthoclase .. If anyone has any great
> patterns it would be appreciated also

There are a coupla schools of thought on the zircon. One is to orient
the vertical axis of the stone parallel with the C axis. This minimizes
the slight' fuzziness' you get from facet edge doubling due to it's high
birefringence. The other school is to ignore the axial alignment and cut
for brilliance/yield as normal. Oh - also, I and others have noted a
high anount of differential cutting rates. You will have some facets cut
in very fast - watch for it. Also, there is an old cut floating around
called the Zircon Cut I think - actually not that great. I'd avoid it.

If the orthoclase is like the mexican Bytownite I cut it has a very nice
luster and looks much better than I would've guessed. I seem to recall
having some facets 'slake' or 'smear'-whatever but direction chage
cleared it up IIRC.

let us know how it goes OK?

Carl
1 Lucky Texan

___
> Message:04
>
> Subject: Re: bio Dolly
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 19:02:16 -0500
> To: LapidaryArtsDigest <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
> From: Dolly <greykin@attbi.com>
>
> Carl wrote:
>
>>OH GOLLY DOLLY!!!
>>       You should SO join the AGMC
>
>
> <twinkling smile>
> done deal
>
>
>>and bring your machine to the beginners faceting class!
>
>
> will do
>
> meanwhile I have some questions
> I'll post them next
> Dolly


Here she is being too kind to me as I may have met her and - (gulp)
FORGOT! Though she has been going to silversmithing classes and I
usually just make the business meetings. And , she, the NEW member had
to tell me that the Novice faceting class is on hold til Sept.

still, nice to see you around this great group as well.

Carl
1 Lucky Texan


__________________________________________________________
Message:02

Subject: Speed Control D/C Motors
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 01:06:58 -0400
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com (LapidaryArtsDigest)
From: sinico@nbnet.nb.ca (H.Durstling)

Hi everyone,

I'm considering replacing the two-speed A/C motor on my old Graves with a
motor whose speed I can vary, and have been told that permanent magnet D/C
motors are the ones which best lend themselves to speed control.

Unfortunately my knowledge of electrics is next to nil. I can get a pile of
D/C motors, 90 volts, 24 volts, 30 volts, what-have-you, cheaply at the
local surplus store. These in turn would entail buying or building a
rectifier power supply. But I have no idea how to tell whether any given
D/C motor is a permanent magnet motor or not; nor do I know what sort of
device I would use as a speed control.

So in lieu of asking for a whole course on elementary home workshop
electrics, maybe someone can recommend a book which might have answers to
some of these questions? Or can anyone point me to an article in a how-to
magazine that might address some of them?

If I can figure out how to do it cheaply and effectively I'll replace the
motor on my Graves CabMate also - speed control can be a real blessing -
particularly in the sanding stage.

Cheers & thanks
Hans Durstling
Moncton, Canada

__________________________________________________________
Message:03

Subject: Lava soap
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 22:28:04 -0700
To: <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Dale Carriere" <bouver@earthlink.net>

Hello Dolly,

Lava soap, OH YEH, good stuff, actually great stuff. I posted this
technique somewhere a while back. I'm sure someone else has preceded me
with this. This is how I do it. You will not believe how this
rejuvenates what you thought were dead grinding laps.

Mount the lap and get it going at a speed that will throw off water at a
considerable rate, this speed differs for 6'' or 8", think about it if
it satisfies you, otherwise just do it. Stuff the Lava bar to the lap.
The idea here is to throw off as much swarf and embedded debris that you
can do in about 5 min time. Continually work the swarf off with your
free hand. Ya gotta be kinda ambidextrous huh? Kinda like chewing bubble
gum and patting your head. OK enough insults. Continue the water flow
and work the lap with water alone until it is beautifully clean, at this
point you should have very little finger prints left.

Next, slow down the lap speed until water rolls off the lap as it would
normally in use for cutting. Now stuff the Lava bar to the lap to
thoroughly saturate the lap with soap until the water can no longer wash
it off. You now have a lap that is "charged" with lava soap. STOP all.

Remove the lap and take it to the sink. NOT the disposal side. Don't put
this grit through the disposal, the bearings really don't like this
stuff. Scrub the lap vigorously with a firm plastic bristle brush with
adequate water to make a nice foam. Then rinse the holey maloney out of
it.

BEHOLD the new life you have just infused into your old dead lap. You
should see the diamond sparkling anew.

Dale in S. Cal.

__________________________________________________________
Message:04

Subject: Re: Spamming Dirtbag Alert.
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 01:04:37 -0700
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com (LapidaryArtsDigest)
From: Tony <lightbender@thegemdoctor.com>

Hello Robert,

I guess I read it all wrong, the idea of a 2 ton piece of rough
floored me, wondering if they had onother to cut earrings set me
off again. Perhaps I'm more deranged than I thought.

I may be more tolerant than others about the cursed spam, but
sometimes stuff arrives that is too good to just delete. With
your sufferance I offer this excerpt;
 
               ------------- spam excerpt --------------------
1. The mind warper generation 4 Dimensional Warp Generator # 52
 4350a series wrist watch with z60 or better memory adapter. If
 in stock the AMD Dimensional Warp Generator module containing
 the GRC79 induction motor, two I80200 warp stabilizers, 256GB
 of SRAM, and two Analog Devices isolinear modules, This unit
 also has a menu driven GUI accessible on the front panel XID
 display. All in 1 units would be great if reliable models are
 available

2. The special 23200 or Acme 5X24 series time transducing
 capacitor with built in temporal displacement. Needed with
 complete jumper/auxiliary system

3. A reliable crystal Ionizor with unlimited memory backup.

------------------------ end ---------------------

made me chuckle...
Tony.


__________________________________________________________
Message:05

Subject: Copper laps
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 14:01:18 +0000
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com
From: "Dave Swartz" <dswartz47@hotmail.com>

Dolly,
Copper laps are pure copper, but some makes may have a little tin in for
hardness. A word of warning-- your "best" bro-in-law  will probably become
your "worst" bro-in-law if he doesn't understand that the laps are charged
with diamond. Diamond plays absolute hob with facing bits, even carbide. I
have faced my laps, but I know going into the process that I will have to
re-sharpen the tool several times before the smoothing process is done. As
for identifying what grit was used to charge the lap, unless the person you
got it from knows or it is written on the lap, good luck. Best way is to
re-face, but see note above. Sounds like Catch-22.
Best of luck in your new hobby!!

Dave Swartz (It finally rained in Lubbock Texas)

__________________________________________________________
Message:06

Subject: Re: Issue No. 132 - Wednesday May 21, 2003
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 01:01:31 +0100
To: LapidaryArtsDigest <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: Michael Hing <faceting2@maiko.demon.co.uk>

Hi there,

I've been thinking about custom faceting machines, and looking at
Gearloose's design (and a couple of others).  There's something I'm not
quite clear about.

Given that these luxury faceting machines have digital-readout angle
meters, why is it - apart from ease-of-use - that they still use index
gears?

Wouldn't it be more flexible to have a digital-readout index meter?
That way, you would never need to worry about having the right index
gear.  You would just rotate the head to the right setting.  So if you
had a design that called for a facet to be cut on notch 6 of a 77-index
gear, you could just rotate your head to cut on index 7.71* on your
"virtual" 96-index digital head (you don't have to do the calculations
for each facet, GemCad does them all for you when it converts a design
from one index to another). This would also mean that you could be
completely flexible about designing gems on GemCad.  You wouldn't have
to restrict yourself to gem designs that meet up correctly using whole
index gears; you could just design freehand on GemCad and set the index
head to whatever setting was required.  The only limitation would be the
usual problem that if two neighbouring facets have similar index
settings the design can get difficult to cut.  This would greatly
increase the creative possibilities in computerised gem design.
Speaking from experience, the main problem with my "Jubilee" design
(ww.maiko.demon.co.uk/facetors/jubilee.pdf or jubilee.gem) was not the
initial concept, which actually fell into place within 20 seconds, but
the HOURS of fiddling with the facets until they were all on whole-
number index settings. Presumably it would also help repeatability,
because you could make a note of your "cheater" setting (although since
"cheated" angle changes are so small, you'd need more than two decimal
places on the readout).  In fact, ultimately it could eliminate the
cheater itself - you'd just have a precise variable-index mechanism.

The main disadvantage that I foresee is that presumably it would be
difficult to find a mechanism that would enable you to change the index
quickly and easily (which is the great strength of the index gear).  For
example, obviously you wouldn't want to crank a micrometer handle 4,000
times to get from index 1.00 to index 40!

Presumably the luxury faceting-machine manufacturers are way ahead of me
on this one - why do you still use index gears?

?8-)
-Michael.

* i.e. (6/77*96) - I think?

P.S. The deadline for the Jubilee Project is fast approaching - better
get those stones in the mail to the Smithsonian!

__________________________________________________________
Message:07

Subject: Beryl For Cabbing
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 23:35:18 -0400
To: "LapidaryArtsDigest" <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Peter In Maine" <kulaczp@pivot.net>

Just a quick note for those who might want some cabbing material from
Maine... I was going thru my pickens and found I have more beryl than GOD
himself ... If anyone wants any let me know and you can have some for
cheap.... The pieces run from small crystals to larger portions of crystals
and color run from sky blue to dark green... I have made a few nice
freeforms from this stuff and maybe someone would like to try it out..
We have started to mine but the weather and black flies have held us up the
past 2 weeks....I picked up about 16 pounds of beryl 3 weeks ago after
digging up some old dumps ( 60 + years old) ,,,, funny that back then all
the unwanted materials went into the dumps.....UNWANTED ??
Hope everyone has a great holiday. fish a biten and we got a few bass and
pickerel today....

Peter .......Maine is wet and soggy...............

__________________________________________________________
Message:08

Subject: Kaemmererite
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 17:08:47 +0300
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "birdamlasu" <fob@birdamlasu.com>

Hello all,

Does anyone know anything about KAEMMERERITE, (the chromium rich variety
of clinochlore)?
I have some rocks with that mineral and the color is superb, but the
crystals are too tiny. I can find the mineral properties etc. in a
mineral ID site. I want to know if anybody has faceted that stone? If
yes, any advice is welcome.
You can see this beautiful mineral in my website.
www.birdamlasu.com click on my country and click again on the gemstones
of Turkey. At the bottom you will see two kaemmererite and some opals.

Kind regards from Turkey,
Oya Borahan



__________________________________________________________
Message:09

Subject: Re: Issue No. 133 - Thursday May 22, 2003
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 09:45:57 -0400
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com (LapidaryArtsDigest)
From: Donald Allen <donallen@gwi.net>

Hi Thurmond,
I recently ran across a reference ( can't find the article on the
net ). to an article:

Faceted Stone Repairs & The Art of Cheating
THE BACKBENDERS GAZETTE
Houston Gem & Mineral Society

This could be a good discussion topic, as there is little reference
to this topic or related techniques,  in any of the books or literature
found on faceting.

Don

__________________________________________________________
Message:10

Subject: Faceters Symposium 2003
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 09:03:13 -0700 (PDT)
To: LAPIDARY ARTS & FACETERS DIGEST <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: Glenn Klein <glennklein@yahoo.com>

Hi Everyone:
 
As Chairman, I have made arrangements with the Ventura County Fairgrounds in
preparing for the Faceters Symposium 2003, to be held on June 5, 6, & 7th.  The
Faceters Guild of Southern California is making this Symposium possible.  As a
member of the FGSC I do not want to over-spend or be caught short in providing a
great Symposium for all faceters.  I am convinced that this is going to be the
most outstanding Faceters Symposium that has ever been carried out....anywhere in
the World.
 
The FGSC also sponsored the Symposiums in 1996 and 2000.  These were held at
Riverside, CA and were great successes for the attendees and everyone connected
to them.   The Symposiums then were worked out with the City of Riverside.   The
staff for the City solved all of our problems and wishes very well.
 
This time I have to work with a County Government.  And they want to be paid for
everything they touch.  The FGSC has to pay for tables, chairs, tablecloths,
speaker rostrum, etc.  Those were not costs to the FGSC at the previous
Symposiums.
 
The reason I am explaining all of this is to point out that you faceters will be
getting an outstanding bargain at $90 to attend the three day Symposium.
 
The MAIN REASON that I am sending this Email is to ask you all to come to the
Symposium.  And if you are coming, but have not yet sent in your registration
form, please let me know directly be Email that you are going to be there for the
Symposium.  You can pay your $90 at our door at Ventura.  But I have to know now
that you are coming.  I have to let the Fairgrounds staff know my final number of
attendees this week-end.  They have to know by then so that they can order the
things we need for the Symposium.....like food and drinks for the Friday
Hospitality Hour and the Saturday Awards Luncheon.
 
So, please let me know in the next few days if you will be showing up at our door
at the Santa Cruz Hall building on the Ventura Fairgrounds property next week, to
attend the Faceters Symposium 2003.
 
Glenn Klein, Chairman                   glennklein@yahoo.com
Faceters Symposium 2003


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TODAY'S FUNNY ~

Subject: [Fwd: Military Advice]
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 17:19:29 -0500
From: Downey <alckytxn@swbell.net>

Subject: Military Advice (too good not to share)

"Sometimes I think war is God's way of teaching us
geography."
-Paul Rodriguez

"A slipping gear could let your M203 grenade launcher fire
when you
least expect it. That would make you quite unpopular in
what's left
of your unit"
-Army's magazine of preventive maintenance.

"Aim towards the Enemy"
-Instruction printed on US Rocket Launcher

"When the pin is pulled, Mr. Grenade is not our friend.
-U.S. Marine Corps

"Cluster bombing from B-52s is very, very accurate. The
bombs always
hit the ground."
-U.S. Air Force

"If the enemy is in range, so are you."
-Infantry Journal

"It is generally inadvisable to eject directly over the area
you just
bombed."
-U.S. Air Force Manual

"Whoever said the pen is mightier than the sword obviously
never
encountered automatic weapons."
-Gen. MacArthur

"Try to look unimportant; they may be low on ammo."
-Infantry Journal

"You, you, and you . . . Panic. The rest of you, come with
me."
-U.S. Marine Corp Gunnery Sgt.

"Tracers work both ways"
-U.S. Army Ordnance

"Five second fuses only last three seconds."
-Infantry Journal

"Don't ever be the first, don't ever be the last, and don't
ever
volunteer to do anything."
-U. S Navy Swabbie

"Bravery is being the only one who knows you're afraid."
-David Hackworth

"If your attack is going too well, you're walking into an
ambush."
-Infantry Journal

"No combat ready unit has ever passed inspection."
-Joe Gay

"Any ship can be a minesweeper... once."
-Anon

"Never tell the Platoon Sergeant you have nothing to do."
-Unknown Marine Recruit

"Don't draw fire; it irritates the people around you."
-Your Buddies



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REFLECTIONS AND TIDBITS:

He who angers you conquers you.

---Elizabeth Kenny---


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