Issue No.64 - Wednesday February 12, 2003
Moderated by: Thurmond Moore III
Committed to carrying on the fine works started
by Hale Sweeny and Jerry Dewbre
Click a link below to post to the list:
for faceting questions  faceters@caprock-spur.com
for lapidary questions lapidary@caprock-spur.com
From the Moderator:
Hi everyone, We have a great digest today.
A quick reminder for everyone, Post to the list
should be sent to one of the addresses above NOT
to owner-lapidary@caprock-spur.com .

Also remember when replying to a post do not
simply hit the reply key write your message and hit send.
This causes the entire prior issue to appear with your question
and requires my editing it out to save bandwidth. Please copy
and paste only a part of the message you are answering  in your reply.


Index to Today's Digest

01  RE: Saw Blades
02  RE: Saw Blades
03  RE: Saw Blades
04  RE: Saw Blades
05  RE: Saw Blades
06  RE: Saw Blades
07  Another Star Stone Question
08  Dan Clayton  faceting diagrams
09  Clubs in Tucson ?
10  Jubilee Project Update


Subject: Re: Issue No.63 - Tuesday February 11, 2003
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 16:44:09 -0800
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com (LapidaryArtsDigest)
From: Don Rogers <Don@Campbell-gemstones.com>

At 06:16 PM 2/11/03 -0600, you wrote:
>Should i take the blade out and try to sraighten it if it is curved.

Richard, NO.

What you are describing is a worn and loaded blade.  The fact that the saw
is gravity fed all but eliminates enough tension on the blade to warp it.

To sharpen the blade, mark the edge of the blade with a marking pen.  Now
take a large 12" or so flat file with teeth on the edge.  Grasp the file so
the thin edge is pointed at the blade and the file is square to the
blade.  If you look at the file/blade from the front, the file is the top
of the letter T.  If you look down on them the file is at 90 degrees to the
blade.  Now using just wrist action, lift and tap the blade,  You should be
striking it with the flat of the thin edge, not a edge.  Continue this
tapping all the way around the blade.   You are tapping, not hammering the
blade.  You will see that you are pounding the rounded edge of the blade
flat and exposing new diamonds.  You can use this to method to sharpen a
blade while it is half way through a cut, without removing it from the
stone.  One word of caution, don't do this with a sintered edge blade. You
will break off the diamond.  You seldom see a sintered blade that large though.



Subject: Slabsaw blade dishing.
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 19:46:44 -0500
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com (LapidaryArtsDigest)
From: "Jonathan L. Rolfe" <webmaster@gearloose.com>

At 06:17 PM 2/11/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>Mostly I am interested in a slution if anyone
>can suggest one. Should i take the blade out and try to sraighten it if
>it is curved. Perhaps others have had this problem and know the cause or
>have a solution.

The poor saw has been cutting too much Jade!  :-)
The blade has lost its tension, so can wander.  This is often caused by
excessive feed pressures.  The manufacturer can retension the blade for a
nominal fee, usually.
There is a certain skill to retensioning..it can be acquired.  A small
hammer can expand certain portions of the blade as needed to restore the
original stiffness.  When the blade is new it rings like a bell, but after
it loses tension it is more like a dull "thud" when tapped.  The blade gets
"floppy" and wanders in the cut.  Sometimes when you check the blade with a
straightedge, you can see that they have bowed inward or outward.


Subject: Re: Saw Blades
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 21:02:15 -0500
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com
From: "Don Sommerfield" <dlsomm@hotmail.com>

Some blade manufacturers offer blade straightening service. However if you
live in an area that has woodworkers or lumberjacks, there should be a local
service that can  true up your blade. You might  check to see that your vice
is running true. Check to see if the set screw locking the  vice is
tightening properly.


Subject: Re: Issue No.63 - Tuesday February 11, 2003
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 23:52:47 EST
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com
From: Send2mail@aol.com

Saw blade may be in need of dressing, to expose more diamonds...

Any, FIRST STAGES of cutting resistance, ( the first few inches), will cause
the blade to cut at the angle you are describing...... If there is too much
resistance and not enough cutting depth in the first stages, the blade will
bow at a slight angle....

Possible resistance's may be mechanical...Check entire shaft, arbor assembly,
etc etc, for any play and other problems .....

The simplest way a blade can bow and then produce angled slab is this way --->
 You stated you are cutting for other people.. Right ?  ---> This may lead
you to attempt to cut the slabs as quickly as possible  ? Time is money...
You would then of course speed up the cutting feed rate.. Have you sped up
the feed rate by adding more gravity weight ...... ?  Speeding up the feed
rate may be fine for soft materials, but you are cutting one of the toughest
and hardest materials to cut / Nephrite..

Therefore unless your blade is in tip top diamond cutting shape, at the
beginning of each and every cut, the faster speed of the vice will tend to
bend the blade at the beginning of your cut and thus, the end result will of
course be a bent  / angled slab... This can also happen at a slow vice speed,
when your blade has low diamond exposure and or, your case may be, cutting
hard materials may not afford you the luxury of cutting fast at all, no
matter how sharp your blade is.....

Others will have their advice.......examine each thread carefully to see what
works for you.. And you may need to follow all the advice ?

Good luck


Subject: RE:Saw Blades
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 23:48:34 -0800
To: "LapidaryArtsDigest" <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Orville & Rose Alene" <obmcarthur@clearwater.net>

Richard, I am no expert, but I can give you a few things to consider.  I
have an older Highland Park saw where the blade dips into the oil, but
mine has the gear that feeds the rock into the blade.
     When reading articles on saws, I came across a statement that saw
blades should be taken out and reversed from time to time to keep from
dishing.  I am not sure if this applies to all diamond saw blades, as
some of them have sintered rims and some of them have curved grooves
with the diamond embedded in the curved pattern.
    I can tell by the sound of the motor if I am putting too much of a
push on the rock and the blade cannot cut that fast. I adjust the belt
onto a larger pulley and slow down the feed.  On your gravity feed if
you have too much weight on it and the rock is pushed against the blade
too fast, it may dish the blade.  On the other hand, if the saw blade
has glazed over, which sometimes happens, it will not cut correctly and
again may be fed in too quickly and that would make it dish.  The cure
for glazing is to cut a brick which will expose the diamond so that it
will cut better again.              
    Of course, once the blade dishes it will cut crookedly and tend to
    Sometimes such blades can be sent back to the manufacturer and
    I dished the blade on about an eight inch sawblade on a gravity feed
saw a few years ago.  Found an old article in a rock magazine about
reconditioning your own saw blades by laying them on a flat hard surface
and hitting them in a curving pattern from the center to the outside rim
with a ball peen hammer.  Well, it was flattened out, but the poor thing
looked so pitiful that I decided to go buy a new one.
    There are some methods of removing a lot of sediment from your saw
without actually draining it.  Be prepared to get gloriously oily! 
First of all, after the saw has been sitting for at least a day without
running, Take a wide bladed spatula and run it across the bottom of the
tank.  Dump your load of sediment into a big coffee can and go back down
for some more of the glop.  You can scrape most of the sediment off the
bottom of the tank this way.  Get a big funnel ...or a circular rim with
wires woven back and forth across it to make a sort of primitive
support....line with a half an inch or so of newspaper.  Now you have a
filter.  Rest it on the top of a bucket.  Dump your oily sediment into
the filter.  The oil can drain down through the newspapers, and the
sediment will stay on top.  This will take some time, but you probably
still have plenty of oil left in the saw to work with.  Dispose of the
oil depleted sediment and newspaper in the garbage in a big plastic sack
(I think this is legal).  Do not dump it on the ground like the former
owner of our place did.  It wrecks the soil, and I suspect the remaining
oil could travel through the soil.  If you line the bottom of your saw
reservoir with burlap or carpet, you can fish that out and put it into
your filter to drain.  Probably easier with small pieces.  A small
bladed putty knife can be used to scrape up the sediment on your saw
feed and such.   If you brush things off with a paintbrush dipped in the
oil right after making a saw cut it will help to keep it from building
up on the inside work'ins
    Someone else can probably give you better feedback.
Take Care, Rose Alene McArthur


Subject: Re tapered slabs
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 19:29:49 -0800
To: <owner-lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: "David Barclay" <davebarclay@telus.net>

i just solved the same problem in my 14inch drop saw--- original factory"
sealed" bearings onthe saw arbor were worn out after 20+ years of cutting
thus giving me tapered cuts. I changed both arbor bearings and pillow blocks
to ones with grease fittings.
  One tip --- when you reposition the lock collars onthe shaft do not
tighten right snug against the pillow block at least on one side--- need
alittle room for exspansion due to heat build up as the saw runs.
   Mine now cuts great again!
   Hope this helps.
    Ciao Dave Barclay in the beautiful Slocan Valley in B.C., Canada


Subject: Re: Issue No.63 - Tuesday February 11, 2003
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 01:50:01 +0000
To: LapidaryArtsDigest <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: Michael Hing <post@maiko.demon.co.uk>

Does anyone know how coarse needle inclusions can be before they stop
forming a star?  I have a small sapphire with short, stubby, plate-like
rutile needles in it.  They are oriented and quite profuse (like
schiller in a sunstone).  Will they form a star if I cab the stone, or
will this only happen if the rutile is really fine?


Subject: faceting diagrams
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 22:56:57 -0500
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: Tom Pyles <zpyles@comcast.net>

Does anyone know if Dan Clayton has a book of faceting diagrams.  I did several of his
baronian ovals anf find them much easier to follow and cut than those in Long and Steel.
Probably because they are in Gem Cad format.

Any help would be great.


Tom Pyles


Subject: HI ... Faceters in Tucson?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 00:27:07 EST
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: Rocksinhed@aol.com


 I recently moved to wonderful Tucson, Arizona ... YES!

 Are there any Faceting Clubs here?

 (I am also looking for Paleontology and Mineral Clubs)

 Thanks  ..... Have a great day!

 Jimmy Quigley

Hi Jimmy,  The Old Pueblo Lapidary Club is in Tucson.



Subject: Jubilee Project Update
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 01:44:52 +0000
From: Michael Hing <post@maiko.demon.co.uk>

Dear All,
Quick update on the Jubilee Project: I'm still trying to find someone
who will accept the stones!  Buckingham Palace have not been helpful at
all.  I think that they still think it's a scam.  But I am still working
on some contacts (the Keeper of the Crown Jewels told me to speak to the
"Director of the Royal Collection" and maybe he will be more helpful).
I've also tried talking to various people, such as the Commonwealth
Secretariat, to see whether they would like to accept the stones and
present them to the Queen (perhaps Buckingham Palace would be more
likely to accept them if they came from some official body?).  Does
anyone have any better ideas?
So hang on to your stones for now!



Hale Sweeny's Lapidary Digest Archives http://www.lapidarydigest.com/
International Lapidary Association http://www.gemcutters.org
http://webdev.archive.org/ then enter www.liccini.com
Old Pueblo Lapidary Club  Tucson, AZ. http://www.oplc.2ya.com/   


Facetron: http://www.facetron.com/
Graves: http://www.rockhounds.com/graves/
MDR: http://www.mdr-facet.com/
Polymetric: http://www.polymetricinc.com/
Ultra-tec: http://www.ultratec-facet.com
Fac-Ette Manufacturing Company: (910)256-9248
http://www.fac-ette.com/ 800-336-9248.
Raytech Industries: http://www.raytech-ind.com
Rock Peddler: 1-800-416-4348 / www.rockpeddler.com



Accredited Gemologists Association, http://aga.polygon.net/
American Gem Society, (AGS) 702-255-6500
American Gem Trade Association, (AGTA) http://www.agta.org
Gemmological Assc. & GTL / Great Britain, http://www.gagtl.ac.uk/gagtl
Gemmological Association of Australia, http://www.gem.org.au
Gemological Institute of America, (GIA) http://www.gia.edu.giagem
International Gem Society (IGS) web site is: http://www.gemsociety.org
International Colored Gemstone Association, http://www.gemstone.org
My Gemologist http://www.mygemologist.com


FACETING GUILDS (Alphabetically, World) ~

*Charleston Faceting Guild, South Carolina, wmcnay@mindspring.com.
*Columbia-Willamette Faceter's Guild, http://www.facetersguild.com/
*Danish Faceters Guild, http://medlem.spray.se/danfacet/
*East/Central Florida:Tomoka Gem and Mineral Society's Faceters Guild,
Don Cameron: ghgemcutter@earthlink.net
*Eastern Mass Faceter's Group, rockpeddler@attbi.com
*Faceter's Forum Society-LaPorte, IN VESteele@aol.com
*Faceter's Guild of N. California, Wayne Meissner, lklomp@cnetech.com
*Faceter's Guild of S. California, Jerry W. Carroll, (818)348-6327
*Intermountain Faceter's Guild, Carl M. Unruh, (360)385-3753
*Midwest Faceter's Guild, Tyler Miller,  tmiller277@comcast.net
*Mid-Williamette Faceters Guild, Albany, Oregon, Michael E. Bumcrot;
E-mail @ MBumcrot@valleyoilco.com
*Moreton Bay is a branch of the Australian Facetors' Guild, Brisbane,
Queensland. http://cwpp.slq.qld.gov.au/afg
*New Mexico Faceter's Guild, Nancy Attaway, attaway@highfiber.com
*North Puget Sound Faceting Guild, Keith Wyman, tfw@fidalgo.net
*Tacoma Faceting Guild, Chuck Bloch chuck_b@prodigy.net
*Texas Faceter's Guild, Jill Rowlands, gemsbyj@aol.com
*Seattle Faceting Club (LeonardBahr@prodigy.net)
*United States Faceting Guild (Keith Wyman, tfw@fidalgo.net)
*Vancouver Island Faceters' Guild - British Columbia, Canada.

(Add your faceting organization here, US or International - Write to
( owner-lapidary@caprock-spur.com or owner-faceters@caprock-spur.com )



Wise cooking advice
This weekend, I discovered a cooking tip I haven't seen listed in any cookbooks.

While you are preparing the food, and after the guests have arrived, you contrive to fill the
house up with smoke, preferably enough to get at least two smoke detectors going.

Then you go rushing about the house, opening all the windows, setting up fans, and generally
doing everything short of calling the fire department.

Let the guests sit for about 1/2 hour at 50 degrees (as a result of opening the windows) and
serve the food.

By this point, you have established expectations in your guests' minds that you can't fail to



" People who say "it cannot be done"
Should not interrupt the one doing it."

--- Author Unknown --- 


The Lubbock Gem and Mineral Society is looking for 2 more vendors
for our Spring Show at the Lubbock Civic Center May 17th and 18th.
Setup day for the show is Friday May 16, 2003.  If you are a vendor and
would like more information concerning the show please call Ed Ries at


Subject: Subject add
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 15:47:26 -0500
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "RICHARD P ROSENTHAL" <kenaii@earthlink.net>

Date Febuary 6th /03      
Green Siberian Nephrite Jade
Carving ,Sculpture Grade, Some Black Spots, Ten dollars a pound up to
fifty pound pieces.
Jewelry grade, Green with Green chrome spots, Superior Transluscense and
Color, Fifty dollars per pound
Please contact Kenaii@earthlink.net    or check the material out at


TUCSON           February 6 - February 11, 2003             TUCSON
LOWE  ASSOCIATES  -  Robert P. Lowe Jr. invites you to visit us in
Booth # 205 at the GJX - Gem & Jewelry Exchange, Downtown Tucson, for
TOURMALINES - in Greens, Pinks, Indicolite, Rubelite, Salmon, Yellow,
Silver, Orange, Purple, Bi-color, Tri-color, - sliced, faceted,
cabochons, Paraiba and Rough. TOURMALINES in Watermelon Slices,
Singles, Matched Pairs, Sets, Cabochon Slices, plus all the other
Brazilian Colored Stones, including - Aquamarine, Citrine, Blue Beryl,
Rutilated Quartz (Calibrated), Imperial Topaz, Alexandrite, Kunzite,
Brazilian Opals - Crystal & Boulder, rare Purple Topaz Specimens,
Amethyst, Morganite, Faceted Gemstone Beads, Emeralds - faceted,
cabochon, carved & Slices, Emerald Faceting Rough, Emerald Crystals,
Emerald Specimens, Emerald Jewelry - And Faceted Spessartite Garnet.
Rough - Dark Aquamarine, Amethyst, Citrine, Spessartite garnet,
Lowe  Associates  -  Robert P. Lowe Jr.
Rua do Mirante, 573
13801-100 Mogi Mirim, SP, Brasil
Telephone: 55-19-3862-4217
Telefax:   55-19-3806-4354
e-mail: < robertplowejr@juno.com > in USA
e-mail: < robertplowejr@uol.com.br > in Brazil


Rough to Cut
If you're looking for quality facet rough please check out Rough to Cut,
http://www.roughtocut.com. We offer a wide range of quality facet rough
from Aquamarine to Zircon. Large selections in stock currently of Beryl,
Garnets & Tourmalines. Please check us out & when you do, why not give a
try to our contest, you could win a 5ct + piece of Spessartite garnet
facet rough.

Rough to Cut


Subject: AD
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 20:50:44 -0800
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: "P. Miklik" <b-daw@pacbell.net>

Contact b-daw@pacbell.net

Honey, red & brown zircons, 10g parcels @$20/parcel

Red Garnet $8/g, eye clean-slightly included
Spessartine Garnet $7.50/g, slight-moderately included
Malaya Garnet $6/g, good eye clean roughs
Tunduri Garnet $10/g, eye clean-slightly included

Pink Tourmaline $20/g, eye clean-slightly included
Red Tourmaline $10/g, slight-moderately included
Bicolor Tourmaline $15/g, eye clean
Watermelon Tourmaline $20/g eye clean
Green/Green Blue Tourmaline $10/g, eye clean roughs

Blue, Green & Blue/Green Sapphires $35/g, eye clean-slightly         
included, up to 1g.

Blue Beryl (Aquamarine) $6/g, eye clean-slightly included crystals
Green Beryl (Emerald) $10-$50/g, eye clean-slightly included crystals,
zoned green
Cabbing Grade Aquamarine $3/g


Rock Peddler
Complete online discount catalog for cabbing and faceting machines, wheels,
laps, polishes, diamond saws, diamond blades, and general lapidary supplies
at http://www.rockpeddler.com.


Gewelers Gems
e-mail: sales@jewelersgems.com
Solid copper laps 1/4 thick 8" and 6"  you can charge both sides with
diamond. http://www.jewelersgems.com

NOW ONLINE!  RRGaetan Gem Rough - Featuring excellent, facet-grade,
Colombian Emerald rough! PLUS, Chrome Tourmaline, Achroite Tourmaline,
Golden Chrome Tourmaline, Aquamarine, Spess, Mint and Malaya Garnets,
and more! For photos and more information, visit us at rrgaetan.com.




For All National and International Masters, Past-Masters and
World-Class Cutters:

This post is simply a reminder that in 2003 the USFG will host its
first National and International Faceting Competition.  It is called
the North American Faceting  Challenge -- 'NAFC.'   Since the designs
and rules were first published in the 2001 September Issue of  the
USFG's Newsletter, and since they have not been published since 2001,
some of you, who are most capable - skill-wise, may not
know about the competition, and some of you may have forgotten.   The
"NAFC" is an OPEN Competition.   Please note:  The designs and rules
can be downloaded at  <http://www.usfacetersguild.org/events.shtml>.
The closing date is June 20th, 2003;  the amount of time between the
present date and June 20th, 2003 should be enough for all Master
cutters to cut the two required designs -- Fred Van Sant's "Four
Star," and Charles Covill's "Wind Wheel No. 2."   If   further
information is needed, please contact me at <clmoon@pacbell.net>.

Charlie Moon





  Presented by the Faceter's Guild of Southern California
    At the Seaside GEMboree AFMS/CFMS Convention & Show
           Ventura, California June 6-7-8, 2003

     You are invited to participate in the Faceters
Symposium 2003 which will be held at the Seaside Park
(Ventura Fairgrounds) at Ventura, California during the
AFMS/CFMS Convention & Show.  The Faceters Symposium dates
are June 6th, 7th, & 8th.  That is Friday, Saturday, &
Sunday.  The CFMS GEMboree is on those dates as well as on
Thursday the 5th of June.  All of this is at the same
location, just a hundred yards from the beach.

     The Faceters Symposium will feature ten speakers, who
will have presentations covering various parts of gemstone
faceting interests.  A Hospitality Hour on Friday evening
and a Saturday Awards Luncheon are also part of the
Symposium.  There will be competitions at the Novice,
Advanced, & Masters levels.  Get started on your
competition entry soon.

     The CFMS GEMboree itself will have buildings that have
exhibits on display, dealers with their wares to offer,
demonstrators to show how it is done, and speakers with
presentations covering other lapidary fields of interest.

     For information & costs regarding the Faceters
Symposium (including competition information), your contact
is listed below.  Ask for one of the Packets.  Be sure to
state your snail mailing address so that a Packet can be
mailed to you.

Glenn Klein, Chairman
24001 Muirlands Blvd., Space #79
Lake Forest, CA 92630        email:   glennklein@yahoo.com


Lubbock Gem and Mineral Society is proud to present it's
45th Annual Gem, Mineral, Fossil,& Jewelry Show.
WHEN: May 17-18, 2003
Where: Lubbock Civic Center, Lubbock, Texas
Time: Sat.5/17: 10am-6pm
          Sun.5/18: 10am-5pm
For more information contact Archie Scott
e-mail: asscott2@door.net
telephone: 806-894-1584       



KANSAS: If anyone in the central portion of the country from Oklahoma city
to Wichita to Kansas City would be interested in forming something like the
Flatland Facet Guild or some such name give me a line at
Larry W. Davis

ILLINOIS - MISSOURI (Central Area, hubed around St. Louis, Missouri) A
group of 4 faceters have met and we had a great time. We intend to meet
again and would like to have fellow faceters join our group. I received an
email from another Newbie that expressed interest in attending our next get
together. Faceters from any and all areas are welcome... It's swell to meet
personally and exchange tips and hints! COME JOIN OUR GROUP! It's FREE! ;o)
Doug Smith, Alton, IL .at: gembin@spiff.net

INDIANA: I moved to Valparaiso, (Northwest) Indiana, about three years ago.
Are there any clubs in this area? or is there anyone interested in starting
one? I do faceting and some cabbing. Not much here but cornfields. Nice
scenery, but I get sooooooo lonely. LOL Let me know. (Bill) "William
J.Pysnack" <wjpin@home.com>

S.E. LOUISIANA: Anyone in or around the New Orleans, LA area wishing to
form a club or have get togethers for faceting, discussions, cabbing,
procurement, etc. Please contact me via email @ tbird@bayouself.org. (Thom
Bird - Chalmette, LA)

MISSISSIPPI: If anyone is near Meridian Mississippi and would be interested
in forming some kind of club or just get together with faceting and/or
cabbing please e-mail me at jennings@netdoor.com Thanks, Jim

TEXAS: Anyone in the Corpus Christi or Coastal Bend area that is interested
in starting a local faceter's guild contact me at: hankswan@earthlink.net or
gemscc@msn.com or telephone 361-857-2405 (days) or 361-992-1296
(evenings).Hank swan

WASHINGTON DC.(Rockville Md area) Looking for folks to get together
occasionally to facet. I have just started faceting and am also interested
in sphere making (infinate # of facets) Robert Winfield

Lurking is fine, but participation is more fun!! Get involved!!


is produced by Thurmond Moore III

Tempie Francis, Attorney at Law / Legal Advisor


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