LAPIDARY ARTS and FACETERS DIGEST
Issue No. 117 - Monday April 28, 2003
Moderated by: Thurmond Moore III
Committed to carrying on the fine works of
Hale Sweeny and Jerry Dewbre
POST TO EITHER LINK BELOW:
VISIT OUR WEBSITE TODAY
From the Moderator:
Another Great list today group. Thanks for all the fine post.
Index to Today's Digest
01 RE: Faceting Machines
02 NEW: Off the Dop
03 NEW: Good Spessartine Garnet Rough
04 RE: Lab Alex
05 RE: Faceting machines and Copper laps
06 FS: Synthetic Alexandrite Rough
07 WTB: Jemeter
08 NEW: pearls
09 RE: Beginners
10 NEW: Dark Garnets/ the DARK STAR Round/ Announcement
11 RE: Copper Laps
Subject: Faceting Machines
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 19:20:45 -0700
From: Webb Long <firstname.lastname@example.org>
36 years ago I bought a Prismatic Faceting machine from Doug Hoffman,then
living in Spokane, Wa. Doug upgraded my machine several times at very
minimal cost. He moved to Clayton,Wa. and is now deceased. He was a
wonderful man. His son Zane now has the factory in Clayton,Wa. and will
still repair my 36 year old Prismatic. Zane is also talanted & has a big
heart like his father. Zane now manufactures the Poly-Metric
(http.//www.polymetricinc.com) They have many models & I believe very good
prices. Try their web page, I think you will like what you see. I have no
financial interest whatsoever in Poly-Metric Co.,just a very satisfied
customer and proud to call Zane Hoffman my friend. P.S.-Never sold a stone
in 35 years of cutting, have given a lot away however.
Subject: Off the Dop
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 22:14:26 -0500
From: "Wayne S. Barnett" <email@example.com>
This week I finished a project on cutting a series of Moldovites. I cut
about a dozen stones in the series and learned several things. 1. If you
want light return in a Moldovite then cut a small one. stones no larger
than 3 karots. The larger stones that I cut, up to 15 karots, gave very
poor return of light. This is probably because of the dark color of and
impurities in the stone. An additional reason for the poor light return is
the visable 'swearls' in the material. I would guess that these break the
raypaths of the light as it bounces through the stone. 2. Moldovites cut
easy and polish easy. If you want to test cut a stone this is a good
material to use. 3. If you want to cut a Molovite begin with rough that is
considerably larger that the final desired size. Because of the holely
nature of the material a great amount of the outer part needs to be removed
to get to the clean inner part of the rough.
I took on this project because I purchased a number of stones over the past
several years and decided to cut them as a project. There are probably one
or two that may be recut because the cuts did not work and the stones could
have a bit better performance if some of the rough areas were removed. Some
of the stones were cut with some of the rough left on to see if it would
perform better or have a positive effect on the appearance of the stone.
With some of the outer rind left on the performance was not imporved and
probably made it worse.
I hope that these observations help anyone who plans to cut Moldovites.
Wayne in Houston
Subject: Good Spessartine Garnet Rough
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 23:26:05 -0700
From: Phillip L Stonebrook <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Greetings list and Noel...
Thanks Noel .. for the spessartite rough you sent me in response to your
contest in your advertisement below. I received it today, and it's very
nice material .. a flame orange/red, clean, well shaped for good
recovery, and at 35% saturation .. just right to get bright and lively
gems, if I cut these at the right angles, for a finished color saturation
of ~40%+. For the convenience of those that wish to check out Noel's
selection, use this link:
Phil in Florida
<<Rough to Cut
<<If you're looking for quality facet rough please check out Rough to
<<http://www.roughtocut.com. We offer a wide range of quality facet rough
<<from Aquamarine to Zircon. Large selections in stock currently of
<<Garnets & Tourmalines. Please check us out & when you do, why not give
<<try to our contest, you could win a 5ct + piece of Spessartite garnet
<<Rough to Cut
Subject: Lab Alex
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 00:30:35 -0500
From: "Pauly Sanders" <email@example.com>
Thurmond, thanks for the kind words. The design is my own which I call
'Petals'. It has 177 facets, which this size stone cried out for. And
the customer wanted 'a lot of facets'.
On choice of machines, I have no preference as to the commercial ones,
as I cut on my own machine. I built it loosely based on Gearloose's Rev
H. I've cut on Graves,Raytech-Shaw, MDR, and UltraTec. While they all
have good points, I would rather cut on my own machine.
Subject: Faceting machines and Copper laps
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 10:03:17 +0100
From: "Stephen Smith" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Buying faceting machines for beginners depends on cost and availability
if they are looking for a second-hand machine, as well as to the use you
will put it to. For competition cutting, obviously the best machine
possible. But for general cutting, any reasonable machine does. I use a
Fac-ette (20 years+) and teach faceting in England using a Graves Mk1
(30ish years old) , 2 Glenjoy Concords(old), with new Facetron and Ultra
Tec machines coming along with their owners. A Sir Lankan machine
(Floating Head) is becoming available for under =A3600. This could be one
of the answers to affordable entry level machines. I always say Try
as many as you can then decide.
As to Copper laps with 50K diamond =96 I cut mainly on copper (45 micron
= 100K), with Teflon oil and have excellent results--- except with 1
micron on copper which just rips the surface off. The lap must be
conditioned before use to achieve a flat surface before oil and diamond
are applied. The laps I use are locally made (NE of England), along with
2 VJ copper laps that an early mentor Peter Collins Air mailed me many
years ago and work well.
Subject: Synthetic Alexandrite Rough
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 11:16:58 -0400
To: "LapidaryArtsDigest" <email@example.com>
From: "All That Glitters" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Just to let everyone know, if you should need Synthetic Alexandrite rough,
we have two diff kinds available. The return for either will yield a nice
profit and it is interesting material to facet. We have material that is
being used for laser rod applications and is made within the United States.
This material comes in chunks of about 30-130gram pieces. The price per
kilo is $3500. The rough and faceted stones can be seen on our Synthetic
The color is bright pinkish red under incandescent and teal under certain
fluorescent light - under standard fluorescent lights one sees purple and
teal. A more dramatic color change might be available if the rough is
oriented slightly differently - our faceted example was faceted in the U.S.
by a cutter who had never cut Alex before. This material is best for large
stones, say 8mm or bigger.
Our other material is the typical high quality Synthetic Alexandrite that
one sees selling for $360/ct (retail) with major suppliers of this material.
It has a darker tone and gets dark when say over 7mm-8mm round. We have
this material calibrated in 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 6x4mm and 5x7mm - it has the
expected color change from teal to amethyst purple. It is created using the
Czochralski Pull Method in Russia. When this material is available, we can
usually sell it at about $4000 per kilo - the best price that we have seen
on the same material is about $7500 per kilo wholesale. A few years back,
we were paying $15,000 per kilo and I have seen it as high as $45,000 per
kilo in years past. This material is not always available and may need some
time to obtain.
Again, you can read slightly more about this material on the following page:
We have been selling this material to companies abroad that calibrate the
For those wishing to try either one of these items, feel free to contact us.
Minimum quantity is half a kilo:
L. Allen Brown
Gemologist - GIA
All That Glitters
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 14:44:03 -0700
From: "Dale" <email@example.com>
I'm looking for a Jemeter, anyone got one for sale?
if so contact me offline firstname.lastname@example.org
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 20:53:23 -0700
From: "Don Roberts" <email@example.com>
I need suggestions on how to remove pearls for reuse that have been
drilled and glued or epoxied to a post. Would attack be harmful to
pearls? Any suggestions would be helpful. The pearls have sentimental
value to the owner and wants them reused for her daughter if possible.
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 02:18:16 -0400
From: "Douglas Turet" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
A few days ago, while I was in California, you'd posted some
interesting questions (which many of us have confronted, at one time or
another). Now that I'm back in Boston, I'd like to offer my input on them,
in hopes of helping out. Like several others on this list, I am a
professional lapidary artist (earning my living as a cutter/designer); I
began cabbing and carving back in the early 1970's, and have been faceting
for about the past 20 years. Before I address your questions, though, I
think it's only fair to offer you this "caveat": each of us, who have
mastered one or more of the arts well enough to feed ourselves from it/them,
has the tendency to be both greatly appreciative of all that our skills have
enabled us to do, and equally as pigheaded about the "rightness" of our own
methods and madnesses. In other words, there will never truly be a sole
"right way" of approaching anything, nor a single "ideal" mechanical answer
to any given technical challenge. So, in the final analysis, whichever way
works best for you will most likely be the "best way there is", in your
opinion. With me so far? Okay, now that _that's_ out of the way, about those
comments and questions of yours...
First of all, congrat's on your early retirement -- that is, assuming
it came as a result of personal choice, and not fiscal circumstances; may we
all be so lucky, when that time arrives! Next, I think you'll find a fine
faceting mate in Peter Hurst of Cheshire, England
(email@example.com), who's not only a great guy but also Chairman
of the North West Lapidary and Mineral Society, there. (For more resources
and a general sense of connectedness with those of us in your neck of the
woods, you might consider attending the upcoming Rock & Gem shows of theirs,
on the 17th & 18th of May at the Newark Showground, in Nottingham, or either
the Kempton Park Racecourse show on the 7th & 8th of June, or the one at
Newcastle, the following weekend. If these are a bit out of your way, ask
Peter if he knows of others; doubtless he will.
As for what to do with your treasure trove (once you begin to generate
it), let's first make sure that you keep the horse before the cart. I
believe it was Tom Peters who once pointed out that, "Before you climb the
ladder of success, it pays to know what that ladder is leaning on". In your
case, Russell, the questions I'd ask are, "What is it about faceting,
specifically, that holds the most appeal for me?", and "Why do I most want
to become involced with it?" If your "gut" answer -- the first one that pops
into your mind -- has to do with creating something of immense intrinsic
beauty and visual awe, then I'd suggest you follow your instincts and pursue
that goal; if it's about that feeling of a chestful of pride and
accomplishment, each time a loved one opens his or her latest "Russell
Taylor original", then follow that path, and if the appeal lies primarily in
the accumulation of wealth, then that's another route you can follow, as
well. Since you're already thinking as far down the road as you seem to be,
you might want to get a handle on your own, personal "why"; if you do, the
best way and "how" will soon find their own ways of becoming obvious to you.
Now, do you remember what I'd said about there being no "right" way of
approaching the various techniques of faceting? Well, there aren't many
"100% rights" (or "wrongs", for that matter) on the marketing subject,
either. What I'd suggest is that you first do what makes the most sense to
you, and try to remain as flexible as possible, so that if that doesn't
yield the results you're after, you have the ability to modify your approach
and try again. If you happen to belong to a large family, and have a good
number of female relatives, you might try inviting them to see you work
(once you have enough of it), and asking them if they have any friends who
might appreciate your work as much as they do (and if so, would they be
willing to host a jewelry party for ten of their closest friends, in
exchange for, say, a matched pair of gem-in-gold-stud earrings, featuring
stones "personally and lovingly faceted by dear old Uncle Russell" (or words
to that effect). Or, if you'd prefer, purchase a 1/4-size case (which holds
6 or 8 plastic gem vials), then place one of your gems into each of the
first row's vials, and place similarly-sized, poorly cut stones into the
others, then visit all of the local jewelers within a 25km radius of your
home, inquiring whether they'd think _their_ customers would appreciate
stones cut with as much precision and attention to detail as yours are. If
they say "no", or make some comment about "already having enough suppliers"
(or words to that effect), ask them -- in as completely and nonchalantly
deadpan an expression as you can muster -- who would they rather have
selling and profiting from your wares: their shop, or their competitors'?
"After all", you could add, "how much education do you think even the
dullest of folks will need, to tell which cut is more desirable?" (Then bite
your tongue, and let the next words be theirs!)
"On to dilemma No. 2", as you'd put it. Now, here's yet another area
where that "no rights -- no wrongs" law comes into play. In 1985, I bought
my first faceting machine, a Facetron... and had to send it back to the
factory for recalibration over, and over, and over again during the mere 11
months of my contact with it! The machine was the single worst piece of junk
I have ever had the misfortune of coming into contact with, and cost me
numerous cutting orders (which, of course, had to be refused, each time the
machine's tensioning wire would bend out of whack again, requiring
reshipment to the factory, on the other side of the country), not to mention
all those weeks it was in transit, to or from there. More than once, the
first stone of what was intended to be an identically-matched pair came out
perfectly brilliant, while the second stone of the pair (when cut to the
exact same numerical settings) wound up with a lifeless window at its
center. Finally, after being repeatedly condescended to and finally, roundly
cursed out by the machine's manufacturer (the late Norm Jarvi), I became so
enraged that I threatened to sue him for fraudulently representing that his
machine was "the best", received my investment back, and soon thereafter,
purchased the Ultra Tec machine I have since cut many thousands of stones
on, without so much as a hint of difficulty. I mention this to you not only
because the owner of Ultra Tec recently invited me to become their
Boston-area representative (and yest, I've accepted), but also, to
illustrate a point: at least as many awards have been won on one
manufacturer's machines as another. Ultra Tec makes an outstanding machine.
So, in some cases, does (gulp) Facetron, apparently, since several great
cutters own and use them. Ditto with a half-dozen others. For my money,
there's nothing better in the world than the old, blue Ultra Tec on my
workshop's faceting desk, and I would be glad to discuss the pro's and con's
of it and the others available with you, if you so desire.
In the end, Russell, I'm afraid that it really does come down to what
you're hoping to achieve, and how much of yourself you're willing to invest,
in order to reach that goal. If there are any underlying principles to be
imparted, in this neo-Arthurian quest of yours for the ideal machine and
marketing approaches, the ones I'd pay the most attention to are:
1) Strive for your personal best, without damning yourself for shortfalls,
2) Strive for an overall sense of balance between work and play,
3) Strive to become as flexible and resourceful as you can be, and
4) Strive to assure that none of the above eats too much of your day!
Keep smiling and, if I can be of further service, don't hesitate to write or
All my best,
Douglas Turet, GJ
P. O. Box 162
Arlington, MA 02476, U.S.A.
Tel. (617) 325-5328
Fax: (928) 222-0815
Subject: Dark Garnets/ the DARK STAR Round/ Announcement
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 15:02:07 -0400
From: "Douglas Turet" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Over the past few days, there's been a good deal of discussion about
overly-dark Garnets and what can be done about them. In my experience, there
are only four real options available to us, when "stuck" with these:
1) Facet "Double Dutch Rose" cuts (in which crown and pavilion are
identical, and identically windowed);
2) Facet "Single Dutch Rose" cuts, in which the apexed crowns sit atop flat,
polished backs, in what amounts to a 'faceted cabochon';
3) Facet the pavilions and cab or carve the crowns, and
4) Facet single-cut pavilions at or within 3 degrees of the critical angle,
then place an apexed crown atop these, with the facets askew of the pavilion
I've designed a cut I call the "DARK STAR" for this purpose, which,
although far simpler than many of the designs we're accustomed to seeing and
cutting, offers the benefits of both asymmetrical retro-reflections and a
reduced w:d profile, making it useful for over-saturated materials like
these. To cut it, begin by spin-cutting a round girdle and preforming a 39*
(degree) pavilion cone.
The DARK STAR ROUND
Angles for Almandite Garnet (R.I.=1.77-1.83).
P1 - 39.0 - 93-03-09-15-21-27-33-39
45-51-57-63-69-75-81-87. (establish girdle plane)
(OPTIONAL modification, for extremely dark materials, only:)
P2 - 37.5 - 95-11-23-35-47-50-71-83.
C1 - 27.5 - 94-48-80-16-32-64. (level girdle plane)
C2 - 17.0 - 72-24-88-08-24-40. ("float" these @5-10% of stone width above
girdle, so that they do not meet the girdle plane.)
C3 - 5.0 - 96-32-64 ("float" these @5-10% above C1-C2 meets, to reduce
crown's centerpoint and decrease risk of chipping.
Last, but not least, I have what I guess you could call a completely
different option: I have decided to offer some of my gem rough holdings for
sale, including some truly outstanding Garnet roughs, at prices I think many
will appreciate. Unlike the vast majority of material we've all come across,
while searching for rough, each and every piece of this material has been
painstakingly high-graded and/or cobbed by me, a professional faceter, for
the kinds of finished stone results my most demanding clients expect. As
such, if it meets my standards, and it meets theirs, chances are pretty good
that it'll meet yours, as well! At the moment, what I have on hand includes:
AL/T1 - An unusually beautiful lot of Tanzanian Garnet, in clean, bright,
chunky shapes and sizes from 5-25 cts. What makes this lot especially
appealing is that it appears to have come from several different mines ,
because its colors vary from that of Red Almandite to Rose Almandite to
Malaya to Rhodolite, and every single piece of it passes the all-important
"White Paper Test"**. Every single stone cut from this lot will be either
flawless or very lightly included, in sizes from about 8x6 to 12x10, with
some larger and/or longer than that. Pick price = US$0.80/ct, or try a 100
ct lot for $65.
AL/T2 - The same material and sizes as above, but with more of the
traditionally expected Garnet inclusions (bubbly veils, silk, small
fissures, etc.), which may compromise the "White Paper Test"** (most are
right on the "White Paper Test"** line, but should clarify nicely, after
trimming.) This material, if cobbed with a pair of carbide-tipped tile
nippers, will yield many a fine/flawless stone but, since you're doing the
clipping, saves you the hassle of paying more for it. Pick Price =
US$0.35/ct, or try a 100 ct lot for $25.
ML/A1 - Essentially the same Malaya Garnet that several others are offering
but, again, individually hand-picked by me, to assure you of as "dud-free" a
purchase as is humanly possible. These 2.2-6.9 ct peachy-orange to
orangey-red garnets from the Umba River valley are alluvial (i.e.
stream-tumbled), in nature, and are all either internally flawless or so
lightly included that they passed dark-field inspection, when wet. These,
too, have passed the "White Paper Test"** with flying colors, and are
offered at either a pick price of US$0.35/ct or a lot price of $25/100 cts.
(By the way: from a fellow cutter's perspective, I HIGHLY recommend Bob
Keller's "Bar Rounds", Gustavo Castelblanco's "Juliana and Tom Herbst's
"Tris de Garnet" with these! They all do a fine job of spotlighting the
oranges and peaches in these roughs, and are readily appreciated by jewelers
and their customers, alike.)
ML/A2 - As before, these are the same Malayas, in the same sizes, and
selected by me, but are generally either darker than those listed above, or
with inclusions readily visible by a trained eye, through a 5x hand lens.
Many, but not all, still pass the "White Paper Test"** Pick price is
US$0.20, or try 100 cts for $14.85.
AL/T2 - These are leftovers from a parcel I'd picked up long ago, and are
either Almandine or Pyrope-Almandines with a dark purple color to them. They
were initially sold to me as "Grape" Garnets, but I'd rather not attach the
trendy name, since different vendors seem to offer such names to different
materials, and I'd just as soon not go there. These have since been tumbled
to a #400/Silicon Carbide finish, so no doubts remain as to their clarities
(which range from eye clean to cab-grade). No matter what you call them,
they're a steal @ US$12.50 for each 100+ ct lot; at this point, I only have
15 such lots left.
MTS/HTN - These are some of the famous Montana Sapphire roughs, and are
ideally suited for cutting into smaller rounds, squares, triangles and
ovals, with sizes ranging from 0.5 to 2.0 cts. All crystals are in the
lightly-included to eye-clean range, have already been heat-treated to bring
out their best appearances, feature colors ranging from greenish-blue to
blue-green to seafoam, and pass the "White Paper Test"**. Try 25 cts for
US$50, 50 cts for $87.50, or 100 cts for $110. And, last, but not least,
HG/PK - A lot of some very interesting Hydrogrossular Garnet, from Pakistan.
This material is literally "all over the map", with some of the smaller
pieces suitable for faceting and the majority of the larger ones great for
cabbing or carving. Like all Grossular Garnets, these have rehealed
fractures and bubbles galore plus a kind of parallel-band color zoning,
which makes for an appealing "picture stone" look, when properly oriented
and cabochoned. Colors range from those of Navel Orange peels, through
tanned leather and cinnamon, to Mandarin Oranges to Paprika (all of which
pass the "White Paper Test"**). Sizes range from just over 0.5 ct to nearly
an ounce! To make this as fair as possible to everyone, I'm offering these
unusual, highly translucent to transparent roughs by the ounce, only, and
ask you to consider them primarily for your cabbing or carving needs, since
facetable roughs tend to be the exception here, rather than the rule. Try
1oz for US$22.50, a 4oz lot for $75, or a full pound for only $265.
As with everything else I sell -- including the Ultra Tec facetor, a
range of laps, polishing compounds and carving wheels -- these fine roughs
come with what I believe is simply the best possible satisfaction guarantee
around: either you'll love it completely, or you can return it within 10
days of receipt for either an exchange or a full "no questions" refund of
all monies (excluding shipping charges). In fact, I'm so convinced that
you'll be ECSTATICALLY HAPPY with the roughs you buy from me that I'll offer
you something no one else has:
Every rough you buy from me will be SO good that if you DON'T absolutely
love it, I'll refund your money EVEN AFTER YOU'VE FINISHED CUTTING IT! (Now,
tell me: when was the last time someone offered you a satisfaction guarantee
like THAT one?)
**For those who've never heard of "The White Paper Test", it works like
this: walk outside and place a sheet of white paper on a table, then place
the rough in question on the paper, and take one step back. If you can't see
any color from two feet away - other than black - it fails the test, and so
do your chances of yielding the results you deserve for all of your lapidary
efforts. To put it another way, do your customers buy your finished stones
on the basis of how they'll look if placed in front of a flashlight? If not,
then why should you have to buy rough that way?
Douglas Turet, GJ
P.O. Box 162
Arlington, MA 02476
Tel. (617) 325-5328
eFax (928) 222-0815
Subject: Copper Laps
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 15:19:51 -0400
To: email@example.com, Scanlanmg@aol.com
From: "Douglas Turet" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Yesterday, Mike Scanlan wrote:
"I would be most interested in hearing about the experiences of anyone who
have used either copper or brass laps for 50k polishing."
What is it you'd like to know? For many years -- in fact, right up
until Crystalite and Maja began offering their electroplated laps, about 40
years ago -- copper laps were among the only games in town. They feature the
"pro's" of a natural affinity for Diamond and an innate tendency to
work-harden (i.e. become more rigid with use) around each abrasive particle,
and the "con's" of hanging onto stray bits of just about everything else,
along the way, and a relatively easily-developed surface oxidization, which
can wreak havoc on newly-polished surfaces, if water-based lubricants are
used. (If oils are used, a great many of them have the side effect of
dissolving or otherwise degrading the synthetic rubber splash pans found on
many modern faceting machines.)
I used to use a copper lap for my "commercial" quality polishes, but
have since graduated to several of Jon Rolfe's BATT Laps, whose surface
textures and "feel" I greatly prefer to that of copper. Although I do both
use and sell his "Redwing" BATT Lap models, as well, it's only because I'm
using a far coarser grit (either 3,000 or 4,000 mesh) on the lap's copper
outer ring. At these larger bort sizes, I have yet to encounter any
challenges with stray copper oxide crystals, since whichever of them do
arise are quickly eradicated by the superior hardness of the similarly-sized
Diamond particles in the compound. Hope this helps!
All my best,
Douglas Turet, GJ
P. O. Box 162
Arlington, MA 02476, U.S.A.
Tel. (617) 325-5328
Fax: (928) 222-0815
RESOURCES FOR LAPIDARIES:
PERSONALS: (General Lapidary and Faceting)
Lurking is fine, but participation is better for learning !
Post something from your experiences in gemcutting today!
TODAY'S FUNNY ~
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 06:40:19 -0300
To: LapidaryArtsDigest <email@example.com>
From: Robert <firstname.lastname@example.org>
A businessman enters a tavern, sits down at the bar, and orders a double
martini on the rocks.
After he finishes the drink, he peeks inside his shirt pocket, then he
asks the bartender to prepare another double martini.
After he finishes that one, he again peeks inside his shirt pocket and
asks the bartender to bring another double martini.
The bartender says:
"Look, buddy, I'll bring ya' martinis all night long. But you gotta tell
me why you look inside your shirt pocket before you order a refill."
The man replies:
"I'm peeking at a photo of my wife.
When she starts to look good, then I know it's time to go home."
REFLECTIONS AND TIDBITS:
A lie gets halfway around the world before
the truth has a chance to get its pants on.
--- Sir Winston Churchill ---
We at L&M gems are making some changes to our business. As part of these
changes, we will be closing out most of the material we have on our
website at huge savings. If you want anything, now is the time to get it
while it's on sale because a lot of what doesn't sell at sale prices will
This sale includes a minimum of 40% off most items. Some items more - and
sometimes much more, like 75% off some items How about 50% off on
amethyst, 50% off most rhodolite garnets, 60% off green/yellow diopside,
50% off kornerupine, 60% off a zircon parcel, 55% off that huge
actinolite, 55% off all alexandrite, 55% off all bulk malaya color garnet,
60% off mixed yellow scapolite. The few exceptions that are that less
than 40% are 25% off red spinel and all sapphire rough, and 20% off all
select tourmaline. We will be adding some items to the website as we are
able, so please check back for new items being added to the website, and
immediately put on sale.
Please note that our normal 5-day inspection period does not apply to this
inventory liquidation sale. All sale merchandise will be sold "as is" and
we will not accept returns. Additionally, all sales must be by credit
card, money order or cashier's check. We will not be accepting personal
or business checks for this sale. This change is temporary, and is only
going to apply to this liquidation sale.
I have some Afrcian Tourmaline Rough for sale. Assorted bi-color pieces
red-white, green-white, green-blue, pink-blue, and pink-blue pieces that
will cut matched pairs and suites. There are pieces 1-15 carats so call
and tell me what you are looking for. I also have large pieces of red
and pink Tourmaline from Africa as well as orange so please email with
your request. I also have three small Diamond Crystals for sale gem
grade. Tyler Allen email@example.com
We recently received a 100+kg parcel of the Serbian Green Opal. This is a
new material coming out of southern Serbia near the border of Macedonia. It
is an awesome material for cabbing as we well as excellent material for
We are putting some individual pieces on our website at:
Information about Serbian Green Opal can be found on our website at:
A example picture of the bulk rough can be seen on the information page
But, we are offering bulk prices on 'A' grade material as follows:
< 500 gram $.75 per gram
500 gram - 1kg $.50 per gram
1kg - 5kg $275 per kg
5kg - $25kg $200 per kg
25kg+ $175 per kg
The minimum order on the bulk pricing is 100 grams.
Pieces range from 3/4" to 6".
Incredible CZ rough available in all colors of the rainbow. Most available
at 6 cents per ct. Pic's available at www.pebbledesignbymolly.com Click on
the CZ button from the home page. We accept paypal, checks, MO, Visa, MC.
$25 order minimum.
PO Box 1014
Hixson TN 37343
Killer Fire Agate, from new Discovery , Deer Creek, Slaughter Mt.
quality at reasonable price. Write Azinterco@aol,com for pictures and
prices. Or firstname.lastname@example.org
Get a FREE copy of the 2003 Faceter's Engagement Calendar
with a $100+ rough purchase at http://www.qualitygemrough.com
(see website for details).
We have recently added some new material, including a new African
find of green/yellow diopside (and we are the only people we know
who have it). Our stock includes things like alexandrite, amethyst,
aquamarine, chrysoberyl, citrine, emerald, garnets (many varieties)
kornerupine, sapphire, spinel, tourmaline, zircon and more.
At http://www.qualitygemrough.com you get more value for your
money and we show our appreciation for your business with superior
customer service. You always have a money back guarantee with
the 5-day inspection period, and the convenience of using your
Visa or Mastercard.
Rough to Cut
If you're looking for quality facet rough please check out Rough to Cut,
http://www.roughtocut.com. We offer a wide range of quality facet rough
from Aquamarine to Zircon. Large selections in stock currently of Beryl,
Garnets & Tourmalines. Please check us out & when you do, why not give a
try to our contest, you could win a 5ct + piece of Spessartite garnet
Rough to Cut
AVAILABLE FOR SALE
Complete online discount catalog for cabbing and faceting machines, wheels,
laps, polishes, diamond saws, diamond blades, and general lapidary supplies
Solid copper laps 1/4 thick 8" and 6" you can charge both sides with
diamond. Other laps too !! http://www.jewelersgems.com
NOW ONLINE! RRGaetan Gem Rough - Featuring excellent, facet-grade,
Colombian Emerald rough! PLUS, Chrome Tourmaline, Achroite Tourmaline,
Golden Chrome Tourmaline, Aquamarine, Spess, Mint and Malaya Garnets,
and more! For photos and more information, visit us at rrgaetan.com .
LIST and WEBSITE INFO~
LAPIDARY ARTS and FACETERS DIGEST
is produced by Thurmond Moore III
Tempie Francis, Attorney at Law / Legal Advisor
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