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LAPIDARY ARTS and FACETERS DIGEST
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Issue No. 105 - Thursday April 10, 2003
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Moderated by: Thurmond Moore III
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Committed to carrying on the fine works of
Hale Sweeny and Jerry Dewbre
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POST TO EITHER LINK BELOW:
lapidary@caprock-spur.com
faceters@caprock-spur.com
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VISIT OUR WEBSITE TODAY
http://www.gemcutters.org
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From the Moderator: 

Topical Focus for This Week: TOURMALINE CUTTING CLINIC

Lets get those post in for tomorrows digest.
Anyone have any favorite performance cuts,
favorite laps / polishing tips / etc.?

Yesterday an Opal Faceting Clinic was suggested. It looks like to me that
we are already well underway on that topic so we will just continue with
FACETING CRYSTAL OPAL AND our TOURMALINE CLINIC until both
topics run their course. Another topic on the list of topics I have received
is Cutting Amber and Copal. Any takers on that subject?  With that my topic list
that I have received from members is exausted so if you have a pet topic you
want to discuss let me know ASAP.

Thurmond
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Index to Today's Digest

01  RE:  Depth guidelines
02  RE:  Faceting crystal opal?
03  RE:  Faceting crystal opal?
04  RE:  Polishing Fire Agate
05  RE:  Tourmaline Cutting Clinic

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Message:01

Subject: Re: Issue No. 104 - Wednesday April 9, 2003
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 19:15:13 -0500
To: LapidaryArtsDigest <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: Downey <alckytxn@swbell.net>

> Message:02
>
> Subject: Depth guidelines
> Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 21:09:42 +0100
> To: usfgfaceterslist@yahoogroups.com, faceters@caprock-spur.com
> From: Michael Hing <post@maiko.demon.co.uk>
>
> We all know there's a limit to how shallow you can cut a stone and still
> keep acceptable performance (i.e. don't get too close to the critical
> angle).  But how deep can you cut a stone?*  In other words, what's a
> good guideline figure for how high the pavilion facets can go in
> practice and yet still keep a "normal"-looking stone?
>
> The reason I ask is that I've become increasingly aware that I've been
> cutting to "textbook" angles all the time, and in some cases my rough
> has been quite expensive and it would have been worth trying to salvage
> some extra weight.  Previously I've only ever done this by cutting a
> thick girdle, but I think it makes sense to cut to slightly deeper
> angles on expensive rough, as long as I don't go so deep that the stone
> starts to look bad.
>
> Thanks,
>
> ?8-)
> -Michael.
>
> * assuming that the rough is thick enough to allow it, and also assuming
> that the stone is light in colour and isn't going to get too dark

Howdy Michael,

From a design standpoint, we know that CA is important as a
guideline,
but in cutting we usually find better performance 1-2 degrees or so
above it. Also from a design approach,  (180-CA)/3  is used as the
'upper CA' but in actual stones it may be better to use it minus a few
degrees. GemCad will usually show a single bounce ray loss through the
opposite side if the UCA is violated. Now, I have had interesting
performance numbers in some limited cases violating almost every
guideline, but these 2 numbers will keep you out of trouble in the
pavilion of high symmettry designs.

Carl
1 Lucky Texan

__________________________________________________________
Message:02

Subject: Crystal Opal
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 13:44:19 +0100
To: "LapidaryArtsDigest" <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Gustavo Castelblanco" <mail@montana78.freeserve.co.uk>

Hi Everyone,

I would like to thank the list member for all the valuable information
about crystal opal. When I saw Phil's opals in the qualitygemcutting
site I was amazed to see how beautiful they were. I am very aware that
stones look 10 times better than what they look in pictures, so you can
imagine how nice those two stones are. I contacted Phil for some advise
as I have a piece that looks very nice and I though it could be faceted.
My experience with opals is nil and feel too scare to touch this stone.
Phil's advise was great, talk to someone who knows the subject and do
not use this piece as my first opal.

I though it will be nice for me to show you what the stone looks like
and then maybe the experts and gurus can have a better opinion about
what to do. I have a few pics. available in my web site
http://mysite.freeserve.com/gemstones/
The stone looks nicer than the pics.

The day after I took the pics, I pre-polished the flat base of the stone
to get a better idea about the quality. The fire is a lot more intense
now. I used a nu-bond 600 and it made a big difference with a very
little time on the lap (I am scare). The stone glows a orange/red
colour, and it has layers of blue/green, pins of yellow and a red layer
near the top of what will be the top of a cab, or the pavilion if
faceted. After I did the little pre-polish, the stone looks more
transparent against the light, and it does not shows the fire. If viewed
with the light coming from behind you can see the fire. I am absolutely
confused about what kind of opal this is and what to do with it. All I
know is that if I wet it and switch the lamp of my machine on I could
spend all day looking at the magnificent explosion of colour in this
piece. I think I will call it The Echanted opal as some people of my
country will call those special emeralds that take the breath away from
who ever sees them. Sadly I have the feeling that this opal is going to
remain in my safe for a long time. I haven't got the knowledge to touch
it and I am wise enough not to. maybe if I was younger I just would go
ahead and do it. Is that a sign that I am getting old?. Now I am twice
as scare. :-)

Thank to all,

Gustavo.

__________________________________________________________
Message:03

Subject: "Enchanted Opal"
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 15:19:04 +0100
To: "LapidaryArtsDigest" <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Gustavo Castelblanco" <mail@montana78.freeserve.co.uk>

I added three pics. of the Enchanted Opal (I like that name) in my web
site. Just follow the link Enchanted Opal.
I hope this will give you all a better idea about the stone.
http://mysite.freeserve.com/gemstones/
Regards,
Gustavo.

__________________________________________________________
Message:04

Subject: Polishing Fire Agate
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 22:55:06 -0500
To: <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Pauly Sanders" <redhog@midwest.net>

Thanks Tony and all the rest for the fine tips to work fire agate. Now,
if I could just find the time to play with some.  Custom faceting has
picked up,(yea), but I'm supposed to be retired. <LOL>

Pauly

__________________________________________________________
Message:05

Subject: Re: Issue No. 104 - Wednesday April 9, 2003
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 12:14:10 -0500
To: "LapidaryArtsDigest" <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: "CHARLES COVILL" <covill@msn.com>

>
From: Dan Clayton <dclayton@speakeasy.org>

Hello faceters,

Since we are discussing tourmaline this week what "tricks" do you
use to identify stress in tourmaline. I have had a couple tourmaline
that appeared to be flawless or nearly so develop cracks during
cutting.-----------

Hi Dan: Are you using epoxy ? Epoxy changes volume during
curing. As it cools it shrinks. Emerald cut or long tourmalines
will crack do to the stresses involved. Also to much pressure on
tourmaline will cause it to crack. Hope this helps.

Charles in Austin


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GOING HOME

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