====================================
LAPIDARY ARTS AND FACETERS DIGEST

a digest committed to carrying on the fine
works started by Hale Sweeny and Jerry Dewbre
====================================
Issue No.5 - Friday November 8, 2002
====================================
Click a link below to post to the list:
for faceting questions faceters@caprock-spur.com
for other lapidary questions lapidary@caprock-spur.com
====================================
List Posting Guidelines and rules can be found at:
http://www.facetersdigest.org/rules.htm
====================================
Web Site http://www.facetersdigest.org
====================================
Published Monday thru Friday, except holidays
from deep in the heart of rural Texas
====================================
The Lapidary Arts Digest is moderated by:
Thurmond Moore III & Fred Ward (Gemology)
====================================
From the Moderator:

There is not much to say today except we have
a great digest thanks to your post. Keep 'em coming.

Thurmond
====================================
Index to Today's Digest

Lapidary Messages:
--------------
01 Re:Saw Blades
02 New: Coober Pedy Opal.
03 Thanks
04 Re: treated turquiose

Faceting Messages:
--------------
05 I Just Updated My Trip Report
06 Rockey, Bullwinkle and Flying Rocks
07 Re: Microwave treatment
08 Re: Hessonite garnet pricing and lemon yellow faceting rough
09 Message re selling lap??
10 RECTANGLE CUSHION CUT
11 Notice- Tourmaline gone!
12 Q: About red synt. ruby

Business Section - Buying Rough

====================================
LAPIDARY DISCUSSION:


Message:01

Subject: Saw Blades
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 20:44:45 -0700
To: <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Galarneau's" <gggemswcr@cox.net>

Lenny,
The blade I am using in my 18" slab saw is a MK continuous rim. I
think it has a kerf of .070, but I am not sure. I think why I can get
such long use on a blade is because I clean my oil about every 5 weeks
and I run the blade speed at 1200 RPM's. My motor is a 3/4 horse and the
feed rate is about 1" every 5 minutes.

Gerry Galarneau

_______________________________________________________________

Message:02

Subject: New: Coober Pedy Opal.
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 22:52:53 -0500
To: <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Rich" <richtherm@bluemarble.net>

Hello all,

I have a quick question for y'all. About a year ago I bought a bunch of
Coober Pedy opal (credit card company had a hay day with me.. They saw
the Ausi billing and shut down the card thinking it was stolen hehehe).
In the parcel was an opalized clam or oyster (sorry, don't know my opal
or mollusks) that weighs 39.5 Cs. The opal skin (shell) has a small
chip showing good color and play lies beneath the outer skin. Here's my
question..... How in the world do you know how to best cut these
things?????? Is there some sort of magic to orienting opal?

Thanks in advance,

Rich Ashcraft
Lyons, IN

_______________________________________________________________

Message:03

Subject: Thanks
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 08:14:42 -0700
To: <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Gail Clark" <clarkg@cableone.net>

Thurmond,

Thank you for the time and effort you are putting into the Lapidary Arts
list. When Hale discontinued his Digest, this loss was keenly felt by
all the members who subscribed. It is gratifying that you are
continuing this excellent project.

Very best wishes, and continued success with this valuable service!

Gail Clark

_______

Hi Gail, I too still miss Hales List but his archives and work will be preserved for
future generations of lapidarist.

Thurmond
_______________________________________________________________

Message:04

Subject: treated turquiose
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 08:45:51 -0700
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "jake" <efjke@msn.com>

On Treated Turquoise;

Dear Sir,

First there will be some difference of opinion on this, but it is my
opinion, if I understand the situation correctly, is not to do it. You said
the stone polishes well, although you said it was soft you made no mention
of having to back it. So I take you did not run into problems there. I
having never seen the stone, but take it that this would not make a good
ring stone as it is to soft. Moreover, I take it that this is what is being
discussed. It may also limit some bracelet designs. (Even the very best
(hardest) turquoise in the opinion of most should not be used in belt
buckles (as a large stone) as being to soft. Most of what is stabilized
(before the treatment) can not be cut or polished even with backing.)

The reason I say this are several, one, only 5% (at most by some accounts)
of the turquoise on the general market is natural. Having seen stabilized
material most to an eye accustomed to this dose not look like the same
material but a different, if similar, material altogether.

I have not seen the results of the use of the substances mentioned; however
this will not bring it up to the point for use as a ring stone. As to
altered looks, perhaps it will not show on some of that, or even any. But if
you sell this you have to disclose it. Talking with a jeweler some time back
he mentioned that he had people ask for repair work on turquoise rings that
had gouges in the stone. The problem is that the softer stone should not
have been used for that. This I would say would still be a problem. Most
treated material (not the stabilized either), often sold with "coated with
resin to protect the stone," that I have seen, has a different look to it.
That is, it is the shine from the resin and not the stone you see. It is
coated because it often has to be, which is fine for some uses. As said I am
sure difference of opinion on this, and/or what dose it matter will abound.

You did say that the material takes a nice polish, so I would leave it at
that and when you come across other material then perhaps consider it for
those other items. I do not imply I am an expert, only that I have cut some
and now have some Chinese material that varies widely to softer and/or
brittle to some quite hard and can scratch glass. The price on this has gone
up to close to other turquoise. To make a ring I wear, I bought some Morenci
from a Mr. Graham and paid by the gram for that, he said it was some of the
hardest he has come across and this was a good choice. I have a different
piece, which I think has it beat hands down for looks but am not sure if I
would want to put it into a ring considering what sometimes happens.

I have never had any experience with this, but the Bad Boys of Cripple Creek
say they have some of the hardest and that yes it will scratch glass. I
mention this because they will sell you less than a pound (8 oz. Or so) at
the price of the pound (half pound is half the price). I ASKED. As said I
have no idea of what this material is like but perhaps some members do, but
if the cost of a pound is a bit much, (and for many of us it is) this might
work and should give you hard stone. This comes in "flats" (if asked for, as
well as chunks etc.) so with waste considered if using it for cabbing it
might be a better bargain than some of the Chinese stone (which is often
take it or leave it).

If the other (what you have) polishes nice and is pretty I would leave well
enough alone, my opinion only. Then again how soft is soft. If it is as hard
as amber or some other things used and looks good I personally would not try
to improve it, as it still would not make a good stone for a ring, even with
the improvement nor is it likely to improve looks. If you do decide to use
it (one of those treatments mentioned) try only one or two pieces at first
to see how it comes out. This is only an opinion.

E. Jakeman

Ogden, Utah

_______________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________
FACETING DISCUSSION:

Message:05

Subject: I Just Updated My Trip Report !
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 20:26:14 -0600
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "gemhunte" <gemhunte@frontiernet.net>

Hi Everyone,

I just finished updating my trip report from when I was in North Carolina.
It is about the mines that had whent to and the big Brushy Creek Aquamarine
Mine get together and cook out. Read it and see the pictures at:
http://www.huntforgems.com/nctrip.html Let me know what you think of it. We
are going to make the get together a yearly event. All are welcome to come
next year. Just let me know if you are interested in coming.

Warm Regards
Carl Mauritz
http://www.huntforgems.com

_______________________________________________________________

Message:06

Subject: Rockey, Bullwinkle and Flying Rocks
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 21:34:10 -0800
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Gail Bumala" <boomart@cascadeaccess.com>

"Also, where do you get this facet finder everyone is talking about
lately. Half my stuff comes off the dop before I get finished, I could
sure use one, maybe two. LOL. Thanks for helping the preacher out.
-Rockey"

Rockey, my mentor in faceting has taught me to facet always with my
fingers on the stone. This will almost eliminate the need to re-dop a
stone that has come off. I also use five-minute epoxy to dop my stones.
The five minutes is how long the epoxy takes to "set up" in place. The
stone I let cure for 24 hours. To change over, I insert the dop in a
wooden handle with a hole drilled into it, then heat the dop about
halfway up. The stone comes loose. I leave the epoxy on until I'm
finished in case I need to re-dop for some reason. It leaves me with a
point of reference to re-dop with.190 proof grain alcohol prepares the
surfaces and dissolves the epoxy when I'm done without damage to my
stone. Warning, do not drink and facet! ;^) Lots of Luck! Gail Bumala
boomart@cascadeaccess.com

_______________________________________________________________

Message:07

Subject: RE: RE heat treatment of Topaz via Microwave.
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 11:05:32 -0500
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Michael and Linda Lauer" <lakeout@charter.net>

To all that are on the list I offer this on the heat treatment
experiment I preformed on Topaz.

The stone before it was heat-treated can be seen on my web site

http://webpages.charter.net/lakeout

See the cut stone 8ct topaz at

http://webpages.charter.net/lakeout/topaz%20faceted%20stone.htm

It turned a golden yellow. The size of the dish is a desert 6oz brown
Custard dish filled unbleached flower left uncovered. Stone was put into
the middle of flower and covered evenly all around. I had no idea what
would happen so I started the Microwave on HI power for 10 Minuets.
After about 1 1/2 minuets the flower started to smoke so I cleared the
timer. I should have let the vessel cool naturally with the door closed,
but opened it instead. This caused a cracking sound and the dish broke.
After the whole thing cooled down I pulled out a golden Yellow Topaz.

PS. My wife said I have to buy my own Microwave before I perform any
more experiments.

In answer to How does a Microwave work:

A miniature radio station or magnetron tube sends microwaves into the
oven cavity. Inside the oven they "bounce around" to give even cooking.

Microwaves "bounce" off of metal. Therefore, we cook in a six-sided
metal box so they won't get out into the room. This makes them very safe
to use. They pass through plastic or glass, like sunshine goes through a
windowpane, with no effect at all. Therefore, we cook in utensils made
from these types of materials. The microwaves are attracted, like
magnets, to the fat, sugar and water within the food. Water molecules
are very good absorbers of microwaves, sugar and fat are better and salt
is best. Thus, foods high in fat, sugar and salt will cook faster and
get hotter than foods made up primarily of water such as vegetables.

Microwaves penetrate the foods about 1 inch in all directions
(top-bottom and sides) causing the water molecules to move and vibrate
against one another at the rate of 2 1/2 billion times a second. The
microwaves don't actually cook the food. The friction caused by the
vibrating molecules produce the heat, which does.

Apparently the flour absorbed the microwaves (as it smoked and
blackened) and generated the heat necessary to treat the topaz.

Alls well that ends well,

Mike (StrandJutter Inc.)
_______________________________________________________________

Message:08

Subject: Hessonite garnet pricing and lemon yellow faceting rough
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 21:36:40 -0800
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Gail Bumala" <boomart@cascadeaccess.com>

"i just purchased a small rough hessonite garnet at the local rock show.
does anybody have a clue what the going rate per cut carat is? just
curious.
patty"

Patty,
I usually try to look up several consistent sources that sell faceted
stones done by pros. Yesterday on Gerry Galarneau's
webpage, I saw a number of hessonite garnets for sale, ranging from
$82.30 ct. to $49.75 ct.www.galarneausgems.com Price depends on the four
Cs-cut, clarity, ct wt and color. I try to find stones similar to what I
have and price accordingly. You will note that those garnets all have
concave cuts but there are any number of sites to search, just search
"hessonite garnet" and you'll have plenty.

> A customer wants me to cut a lemon yellow stone rectangular cushion
> cut about 11 x 13. Any suggestions on what to use for lemon yellow
> (he wants lemon yellow he says like lemons in the grocery store),
natural,
> but if not a available synthetic. Also any suggestions on
> best diagram to
> use for this stone.

Since I was on Gerry Galerneau's websight yesterday, I couldn't help but
notice a lovely lemon yellow quartz. It was stunning. Hey, Gerry, thanks
for the help! I also appreciated your information on tile saws and
blades. I'm finding myself looking at my old 10' saw with an eye to take
it apart and build a feeder something like the tile saw has, only not
turning the saw upside down. It seems to be a much better design for
clamping rough in place-duh! My faceting mentor is also an engineer, so
I'll get him thinking about it as well.
Gail Bumala boomart@cascadeaccess.com

_______________________________________________________________

Message:09

Subject: Message re selling lap??
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 09:26:27 -0500
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Rudy Klein.B.Sc." <ikeytess@sympatico.ca>

Hello;
I put up a post saying that I had a Ider-Oberstein 100% lap for
sale;and I haven't seen the post.Maybe I did something wrong since my
knowledge is not too good re "LISTS".
Any help would be appreciated.
regards,
Rudy Klein.B.Sc.

_______

Hi Rudy, Your post appeared on Wednesday and here it is again

Hello,
Please go to Ebay and under "sellers" enter "henrick" to see my
items for sale.I thought someone might be interested in the pure tin lap
as described.
regards,
Rudy Klein.B.Sc..


_______________________________________________________________

Message:10

Subject: RECTANGLE CUSHION CUT
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 10:27:58 -0500
To: FACETERS DIGEST <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: Tom Pyles <zpyles@comcast.net>

Does anyone have a good diagram for a rectangular cushion cut. I have cut Jeff Grams
Signature #3 and like it very much but would like something a little simpler. I see quite
a number of these cuts coming from overseas and they look nice except they are not cut
very well.

Thanks,
Tom Pyles
zpyles@comcast.net

_______________________________________________________________

Message:11


Subject: Notice- Tourmaline gone!
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 11:37:12 -0500
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: Elpaninaro@aol.com

Hello everyone,

Wow what a great response! Thanks to all. I still have about 10 emails on waiting list to
respond to, so it is safe to say the tourmaline is now gone. If anyone is interested in
the rhodolite or other miscellany please let me know, but the tourmaline is going to be
gone by the time I get through the queue I have now.

Thanks again everyone! And if you emailed me last night or today and have not heard back
yet, you will by Sunday I promise as I get through the line and get photos done.

Take care,

Tom.

_______________________________________________________________

Message:12

Subject: Q: About red synt. ruby
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 13:07:50 -0500
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: mbegin@is.jgh.mcgill.ca

I am a neeby in facetting synt. ruby .
I have a red piece and the result was deceiving ....may be I am wrong I do

not know ....
How members deal with colored gem ? Do we have to modify the design
according the the color ?
For example I use the simple heart design by Jeff Graham on a red syn.ruby

.. the final result look
dark red. Also that design was made for that specific R.I. , should I redo

that design with a lower crown and
how can I evaluate color VS reflection.
Thank to all .
Michel from Montreal


====================================
RESOURCES FOR LAPIDARIES ~

Hale Sweeny's Lapidary Digest Archives http://www.lapidarydigest.com/
ILA Lapidary Arts Digest Online http://facetersdigest.org/toady.htm


RESOURCES FOR FACETER'S ~

Facetron: http://www.facetron.com/
Graves: http://www.rockhounds.com/graves/
MDR: http://www.mdr-facet.com/
Polymetric: http://www.polymetricinc.com/
Ultra-tec: http://www.ultratec-facet.com
Fac-Ette Manufacturing Company: (910)256-9248
http://www.fac-ette.com/ 800-336-9248.
Raytech Industries: http://www.raytech-ind.com
Rock Peddler: 1-800-416-4348 / www.rockpeddler.com

====================================

RESOURCES FOR GEMOLOGISTS ~

Accredited Gemologists Association, http://aga.polygon.net/
American Gem Society, (AGS) 702-255-6500
American Gem Trade Association, (AGTA) http://www.agta.org
Gemmological Assc. & GTL / Great Britain, http://www.gagtl.ac.uk/gagtl
Gemmological Association of Australia, http://www.gem.org.au
Gemological Institute of America, (GIA) http://www.gia.edu.giagem
International Gem Society (IGS) web site is: http://www.gemsociety.org
International Colored Gemstone Association, http://www.gemstone.org

====================================

FACETING GUILDS (Alphabetically, World) ~

*Charleston Faceting Guild, South Carolina, wmcnay@mindspring.com.
*Columbia-Willamette Faceter's Guild, http://www.facetersguild.com/
*Danish Faceters Guild, http://medlem.spray.se/danfacet/
*East/Central Florida:Tomoka Gem and Mineral Society's Faceters Guild,
Don Cameron: ghgemcutter@earthlink.net
*Eastern Mass Faceter's Group, rockpeddler@attbi.com
*Faceter's Forum Society-LaPorte, IN VESteele@aol.com
*Faceter's Guild of N. California, Wayne Meissner, lklomp@cnetech.com
*Faceter's Guild of S. California, Jerry W. Carroll, (818)348-6327
*Intermountain Faceter's Guild, Carl M. Unruh, (360)385-3753
*Midwest Faceter's Guild, E-mail: tgibbs@compuserve.com
*Mid-Williamette Faceters Guild, Albany, Oregon, Michael E. Bumcrot;
E-mail @ MBumcrot@valleyoilco.com
*Moreton Bay is a branch of the Australian Facetors' Guild, Brisbane,
Queensland. http://cwpp.slq.qld.gov.au/afg
*New Mexico Faceter's Guild, Nancy Attaway, attaway@highfiber.com
http://www.attawaygems.com/NMFG
*North Puget Sound Faceting Guild, Keith Wyman, tfw@fidalgo.net
*Tacoma Faceting Guild, Chuck Bloch chuck_b@prodigy.net
*Texas Faceter's Guild, Jill Rowlands, gemsbyj@aol.com
*Seattle Faceting Club (LeonardBahr@prodigy.net)
*United States Faceting Guild (Keith Wyman, tfw@fidalgo.net)
http://www.usfacetersguild.org/events.shtml
*Vancouver Island Faceters' Guild - British Columbia, Canada.
wrheitland@shaw.ca

(Add your faceting organization here, US or International - Write to
( owner-lapidary@caprock-spur.com or owner-faceters@caprock-spur.com )

====================================

TODAY'S FUNNY ~

My first job was working in an orange juice factory,
but I got canned...couldn't concentrate.

Then I worked in the woods as a lumberjack,
but I just couldn't hack it, so they gave me the ax.

After that I tried to be a tailor,
but I just wasn't suited for it - mainly because it was
a sew-sew job.

Next I tried working in a muffler factory,
but that was too exhausting.

Then I tried to be a chef. I figured it would add a little
spice to my life but I just didn't have the thyme.

I attempted to be a deli worker,
but any way I sliced it, I couldn't cut the mustard.

My best job was being a musician,
but eventually I found I wasn't noteworthy enough.

I studied a long time to become a doctor,
but I didn't have any patience.

Next was a job in a shoe factory. I tried,
but I just didn't fit in.

I became a professional fisherman,
but discovered that I couldn't live on my net income.


I managed to get a good job working for a pool maintenance company,
but the work was just too draining.

So then I got a job in a workout center,
but they said I wasn't fit for the job.

I finally got a job as a historian,
until I realized there was no future in it.

My last job was working at Starbucks,
but I had to quit because it was always the same old grind.

SO I RETIRED...

=====================================

REFLECTIONS AND TIDBITS:

" Practice like a champion today, and practice like a
champion tomorrow, and soon you won't have to
practice "like" a champion, but rather "as" a champion."

--- Author Unknown ---

=====================================
BUSINESS SECTION:

Subject: Business Section - Buying Rough
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 20:54:35 -0700
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Galarneau's" <gggemswcr@cox.net>

All,
A couple of members have asked me how I get my rough facetting
materials. Within the last 5 years most of my suppliers of rough
materials have dropped out of the business. They quit because in their
opinion it was now too dangerous at the source to be buying materials
and transporting them out of the country. These people were citizens of
African and Brazilian countries. They feared for their lives from new
to the business rough dealers and their relationship to organized
criminals.
What I do now is let the word out that I am buying and where I will be
set up at Tucson. Rough Dealers come to me and I buy in my booth. This
will not work for people who are not dealers. What I would do is find
the person in the nearest city to where you live that deals in finished
gemstones. That person will know most of the current rough dealers and
could hook you up. Be advised that buying rough is where fortunes are
made and lost. There is never a guarantee on rough at this level. I
bet on my expertise and knowledge when I purchase rough. When I make a
mistake I eat the rough and learn.

Gerry Galarneau

=====================================
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISEMENTS:

Facet polishing laps
Still have a couple of dozen Vargas Pol-A-Gem laps left. Only Cerium Oxide
in 6" size. There will be no more 8". Glenn really is not interested in
fiddling with his lathe to correct his maching problems at 8". He and his
protoge, Dick Rugel, will make more 6" if there is demand. There is nothing
faster,better or more durable than a Pol-A-Gem for quartz,sunstone, opal etc.
One lap should last a lifetime ....and they DO NOT SCRATCH. They also work
great on 8" machines. Lemme know your interest. Price delivered in US is
$63.85.
Jerry Newman Gemart Services gemartserv@aol.com

11072002
********

Subject: AD
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 20:50:44 -0800
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: "P. Miklik" <b-daw@pacbell.net>

AVAILABLE FOR SALE
Contact b-daw@pacbell.net

ZIRCONS
Honey, red & brown zircons, 10g parcels @$20/parcel

GARNETS
Red Garnet $8/g, eye clean-slightly included
Spessartine Garnet $7.50/g, slight-moderately included
Malaya Garnet $6/g, good eye clean roughs
Tunduri Garnet $10/g, eye clean-slightly included

TOURMALINES
Pink Tourmaline $20/g, eye clean-slightly included
Red Tourmaline $10/g, slight-moderately included
Bicolor Tourmaline $15/g, eye clean
Watermelon Tourmaline $20/g eye clean
Green/Green Blue Tourmaline $10/g, eye clean roughs

SAPPHIRES
Blue, Green & Blue/Green Sapphires $35/g, eye clean-slightly
included, up to 1g.

BERYL
Blue Beryl (Aquamarine) $6/g, eye clean-slightly included crystals
Green Beryl (Emerald) $10-$50/g, eye clean-slightly included crystals,
zoned green
Cabbing Grade Aquamarine $3/g

10312002
********

Must sell the following rough - no reasonable offer refused -

Rose Malaya Garnet - deep red, eye clean african material - 1 kg available -
$2.00/gram for quantities of 500 grams or more

Red Zircon - eye clean african material - 300g available - $2.00/gram if you
take the entire 300 grams

Spessartite Orange Garnet - slightly to moderately included African
material - Ranges from 1.5 - 3 cts size - $7.50 per gram if you take the
entire 300 grams

I have put pictures of the rough and stones cut from it on the web -
check it out at: http://www.wintershill.com/rough

You can email me (Richard) for more info or ?'s at: wntrhill@somtel.com

*******
Rock Peddler
Complete online discount catalog for cabbing and faceting machines, wheels,
laps, polishes, diamond saws, diamond blades, and general lapidary supplies
at http://www.rockpeddler.com.

09272002P
********

Gewelers Gems
e-mail: sales@jewelersgems.com
Solid copper laps 1/4 thick 8" and 6" you can charge both sides with
diamond. http://www.jewelersgems.com/faceting_laps.htm

03222002P
********

RRGaetan GEM BROKERS < "Quality gem rough for discriminating gem-cutters."
We serve hand-select (and bulk/parcels, too!), affordable, quality gem rough
in a variety of materials. Our most recent arrivals: Aug. 2 ­ Aquamarine,
Spessartite and Tourmaline. For details and a colorful, interactive e-flyer
(PDF), email rrgaetan@san.rr.com and ask for "The Rough List."

00000000P
*****

===================================

COMPETITIONS:

For All National and International Masters, Past-Masters and
World-Class Cutters:

This post is simply a reminder that in 2003 the USFG will host its
first National and International Faceting Competition. It is called
the North American Faceting Challenge -- 'NAFC.' Since the designs
and rules were first published in the 2001 September Issue of the
USFG's Newsletter, and since they have not been published since 2001,
some of you, who are most capable - skill-wise, may not
know about the competition, and some of you may have forgotten. The
"NAFC" is an OPEN Competition. Please note: The designs and rules
can be downloaded at <http://www.usfacetersguild.org/events.shtml>.
The closing date is June 20th, 2003; the amount of time between the
present date and June 20th, 2003 should be enough for all Master
cutters to cut the two required designs -- Fred Van Sant's "Four
Star," and Charles Covill's "Wind Wheel No. 2." If further
information is needed, please contact me at <clmoon@pacbell.net>.

Charlie Moon


===================================

SHOWDATES:

~ FLORIDA

Just a reminder that the St. Lucie Rock & Gem Club will be hosting their 25th
annual show at the Ft. Pierce Civic Center (25th St. & Virginia Ave.), on
November 9th & 10th. Saturday 10-6, and Sunday 10 - 5.
I'll be demonstrating both days.
Norm Holbert
Port St. Lucie, FL

*****

Canaveral Mineral & Gem Society is again presenting
our yearly gem show, the Parade of Gems, November 23rd and 24th at the
Melbourne auditorium, 625 E Hibiscus Blvd in Melbourne, FL, from 10AM to
6PM. Admission is $3, with kids under 12 admitted free.

*****

Tomoka Gem and Mineral Society's annual show will be held on Dec. 14 and 15 at
the Volusia County Fairgrounds, located on state route 44 in Deland, Florida.
Fairgrounds are 1 mile east of interstate route 4 at exit 118. We will have at
least one showcase of faceted gems done by our members. Thank you, John Withey


*****

~ CALIFORNIA


FACETERS SYMPOSIUM 2003
Presented by the Faceter's Guild of Southern California
At the Seaside GEMboree AFMS/CFMS Convention & Show
Ventura, California June 6-7-8, 2003


You are invited to participate in the Faceters
Symposium 2003 which will be held at the Seaside Park
(Ventura Fairgrounds) at Ventura, California during the
AFMS/CFMS Convention & Show. The Faceters Symposium dates
are June 6th, 7th, & 8th. That is Friday, Saturday, &
Sunday. The CFMS GEMboree is on those dates as well as on
Thursday the 5th of June. All of this is at the same
location, just a hundred yards from the beach.

The Faceters Symposium will feature ten speakers, who
will have presentations covering various parts of gemstone
faceting interests. A Hospitality Hour on Friday evening
and a Saturday Awards Luncheon are also part of the
Symposium. There will be competitions at the Novice,
Advanced, & Masters levels. Get started on your
competition entry soon.

The CFMS GEMboree itself will have buildings that have
exhibits on display, dealers with their wares to offer,
demonstrators to show how it is done, and speakers with
presentations covering other lapidary fields of interest.

For information & costs regarding the Faceters
Symposium (including competition information), your contact
is listed below. Ask for one of the Packets. Be sure to
state your snail mailing address so that a Packet can be
mailed to you.

Glenn Klein, Chairman
24001 Muirlands Blvd., Space #79
Lake Forest, CA 92630 email: glennklein@yahoo.com


~VIRGINIA

Hi Thurmond,
Many thanks for for continuing Hale's good work. If possible,
please list the following show sponsored by the Roanoke Valley
Mineral & Gem Society - 22nd Annual Show at the Salem Civic
Center, Salem, VA 11/29-12/1/02. Thanks,Larry White

===================================


LAPIDARY ARTS and FACETERS DIGEST PERSONALS:


KANSAS: If anyone in the central portion of the country from Oklahoma city
to Wichita to Kansas City would be interested in forming something like the
Flatland Facet Guild or some such name give me a line at
faceter@bigfoot.com
Larry W. Davis
******

ILLINOIS - MISSOURI (Central Area, hubed around St. Louis, Missouri) A
group of 4 faceters have met and we had a great time. We intend to meet
again and would like to have fellow faceters join our group. I received an
email from another Newbie that expressed interest in attending our next get
together. Faceters from any and all areas are welcome... It's swell to meet
personally and exchange tips and hints! COME JOIN OUR GROUP! It's FREE! ;o)
Doug Smith, Alton, IL .at: gembin@spiff.net
******

INDIANA: I moved to Valparaiso, (Northwest) Indiana, about three years ago.
Are there any clubs in this area? or is there anyone interested in starting
one? I do faceting and some cabbing. Not much here but cornfields. Nice
scenery, but I get sooooooo lonely. LOL Let me know. (Bill) "William
J.Pysnack" <wjpin@home.com>
******

S.E. LOUISIANA: Anyone in or around the New Orleans, LA area wishing to
form a club or have get togethers for faceting, discussions, cabbing,
procurement, etc. Please contact me via email @ tbird@bayouself.org. (Thom
Bird - Chalmette, LA)
*****

MISSISSIPPI: If anyone is near Meridian Mississippi and would be interested
in forming some kind of club or just get together with faceting and/or
cabbing please e-mail me at jennings@netdoor.com Thanks, Jim
*****

TEXAS: Anyone in the Corpus Christi or Coastal Bend area that is interested
in starting a local faceter's guild contact me at: hankswan@earthlink.net or
gemscc@msn.com or telephone 361-857-2405 (days) or 361-992-1296
(evenings).Hank swan
******

WASHINGTON DC.(Rockville Md area) Looking for folks to get together
occasionally to facet. I have just started faceting and am also interested
in sphere making (infinate # of facets) Robert Winfield
winfielr@inra.nimh.nih.gov
******

=============================================
Lurking is fine, but participation is more fun!! Get involved!!
=============================================

LAPIDARY ARTS and FACETERS DIGEST Staff ~

Thurmond Moore III/ Moderator
owner-faceters@caprock-spur.com

Fred Ward / Moderator - Gemology
fward@erols.com.

Tempie Francis, Attorney at Law / Legal Advisor

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