committed to carrying on the fine works started
by Hale Sweeny and Jerry Dewbre
Issue No.10 - Monday November 18, 2002
Click a link below to post to the list:
for faceting questions faceters@caprock-spur.com
for lapidary questions lapidary@caprock-spur.com
List Posting Guidelines and rules can be found at:
Web Site http://www.gemcutters.org
Archives: http://www.gemcutters.org/archives.htm
Published Monday thru Friday, except holidays
from Spur,Texas
The Lapidary Arts Digest is moderated by:
Thurmond Moore III & Fred Ward (Gemology)
From the Moderator:

Hi all, Please be sure to check out todays business section.
OUR SERVANTS in Washington DC are trying to do it to us

Index to Today's Digest

Lapidary Messages:
01 Re: Water Only Saw Lubrication
02 Re: Saw Blades
03 Re: Saw Blades
04 Re: Saw Blades

Faceting Messages:
05 Re:Protractor accuracy
06 Re: GemCad Designs
07 Handpiece vs Mast design machines. One faceters opinion.
08 Thanks for the help with the Princess cut
09 Re: Princess Cut Diagram
10 New Faceter - information requested.
11 RE: Microwave heat treatment

Business Section -
01 CRISIS** Midnight Land Grab!!!



Subject: Re: Water Only Saw Lubercation
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 19:07:55 -0800
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: Don Rogers <Don@Campbell-gemstones.com>

At 08:53 PM 11/15/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Myself, I have decided that I will be cutting in Water Only, which will
>basically require 2 simple procedures......First purchase a good blade that
>is able to cut in water,,, MK has such a blade & up to 36" ...as do other
>manufacturers....... Second, the saw and blade must be cleaned and dried
>after each days use, which is about a 30 to 60 minute job, MAX... But I
>figure I'll save loads and loads of time, by NOT having to clean off one
>single slab of any oil mess

I would not recommend using Water Only is your saw. While you can get
blades that are designed for water lubrication, the saw isn't. All of the
larger saws are designed to work with an oil lube and relying on this the
used steel that will happily rust when misted with water. This includes
the shaft and the bearings, as well as the lead screws, vise, etc. While
wiping down the blade will prolong the life of the blade, it is all but
impossible to completely dry out a saw without setting up oxidization, rust.

The food grade mineral oil works well for cutting, I am told. The
Vegetable or animal fat oils will turn rancid quickly in a saw environment.
A lot of the odor from a saw is from contamination of the oil with the
cutting of the rocks and the bacteria that gowns in the oil. I have used a
cup of PineSol in a fresh batch of Pella Oil and it does seem to knock down
the odor a bit, but is a long way from a cure.

When you take into consideration the cost of the oil, special blades,
up-keep on the saw, as well as the cutting quality of the saw, it is hard
to justify something other than Almag or Pella A for a lube.

One more thing to point out here is that I look at the issue more from a
production cutting view vs a hobbyist view. What works best for one
doesn't mean it works best for the other. My recommendations may not be
your best solution.



Subject: Re: Saw Blades
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 23:24:48 -0700
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: John McLaughlin <jemstone@amug.org>

> Does anyone know of comparison testing that has been done on diamond saw blades and/or
> sharpening ageents. I sell slabs on eBay and have 2 saws running almost continuously -
> every time it is necessary to purchase another saw blade, I wonder if there have been
> any tests or comparison's done in the past that I could consult as to the best type of
> blade to use.

I am not aware of any tests Lenny, but I would sure like to see a comparison of saw
blades. Certainly it would not be difficult to test blades. A standard material
available in quantity and cheap, like Brazilian agate, would provide a good comparison.
I don't see why advertisers would be upset, unless one of the companies is producing
inferior blades and charging premium prices. Some folks like you need excellent
durability, others might slab the occasional large piece but not really put much mileage
on the blade and be much more interested in price.

Saws might be a different matter. The Arizona Mining and Mineral Museum has a good sized
lapidary lab with about 11 saws from 8" to 30" or 36" (can't remember right now) of
various brands. All of the saws receive pretty frequent use and all keep operating year
after year. If one brand was made with cheap bearings or other flaws, I have not heard
of it. I have used a Lortone 12" slab saw, purchased used, for about 10 years. I have
yet to have any problems that could not be fixed in a few minutes with simple tools, but
I think that probably goes for most slab saws.

Now it would be nice if slab saws came with a neon sign blinking on and off that said
"Wait till the saw has completely stopped before opening the lid, dummy!"

John McLaughlin
Glendale, Arizona


Subject: Re: Issue No.9 - Friday November 15, 2002
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 03:46:16 EST
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: Send2mail@aol.com

Blade comparisons

That would probably best be done by the person you can most rely on for the
job, who is of course yourself.... However, I too have wondered the same
question recently......

Perhaps there have been tests done, I really have no idea ? Also blade
design technology has changed over the years, as has manufacturing processes
& especially plant locations.....

What I have learned recently from the Internet and phone calls is that the
suppliers want to sell you (their) blades, so it's a little like buying a

FIRST educate yourself as best you can......I am trying to educate myself as
to the metals used in the blade, tempered or not tempered....Can the blade
cut in water only.....or just oil only... Sintered or just coated diamonds...
Oven or laser welds.... Thin kerf or Thick kerf, as well as, DIAMOND CORE
DEPTH & what does "high" diamond content actually mean.. What type of
diamonds are they..... What is the grit size of the diamonds used, what grit
/ mesh surface will be left behind on the slab face ? 100, 200, 300, 400,
500...... ? Because then I will know which sanding step to first proceed
with for lapping......steps saved are important time savers.... Notched rim,
segmented rim, continuous rim etc etc etc.........A lot toknow but all the
blade makers know the answers, you just have to ask !

Find out which of the above factors are important to you for your cutting

Then find out who sells the blade you want for the best price and best
professional service, for any and all possible repairs and or replacement of
the blade...

A good 18 * blade can cost anywhere from $125 to $825.... Personally I think
I would opt to go in the middle price range, or simply purchase 6 or 7 low
cost blades and change when needed.. The 6 or 7 blades would probably
outperform and outlast the $ 825 blade overall... But honestly, in my
opinion, I would go with a MK professional...... or a Nu- Tek Smart Cut......
or try www.lopacki.com

Good Luck


Subject: Re: Issue No.9 - Friday November 15, 2002 - comparisons of slab saws/blades
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 06:19:58 -0500
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: Jim <jsmall47@earthlink.net>

Lenny -
We're way past the point on the curve where the two remaining hobby mags
for lapidary do such comparisons! As a general comment I would point out
that not only are we down to two mags which feature lapidary, but in the
most recent Lapidary Journal you can read that their subscriber base is
down a little over 2.2% within 2002! Many years ago Jewelry Making, Gems &
Minerals (published in CA) did such comparisons; also in depth new product
reviews. Since they ceased to publish (in June 1986) the remaining two mags
have cut way back on such endeavors. We're now lucky to get a new product
listing in the annual "guides". These changes, among many others, speak
eloquently to the relative decline of lapidary in the US.
Sorry I cannot offer current help, or much optimism on this topic.

Jim Small
Small Wonders



Subject: Re: Issue No.9 - Friday November 15, 2002, Message:07
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 23:12:45 -0500
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: Kreigh Tomaszewski <Kreigh@Tomaszewski.net>

Telescope makers have need of prisms with a 90 degree angle good to
wavelengths of light. They use a technique similar to yours as their
first pass, and then use hand finishing to make a perfect angle. The
details are not as interesting as the test used...

The worker should hold the prism in front of one eye, about a foot
away, with the hypothenuse facing him (and horizontal). The
reflection of the pupil of the eye will be seen in the prism.
Perfectly round at 90 degrees, elongated if under 90 degrees, and
drawn together if the angle is more.

But if you want all the details I refer you to a Scientific American
publication, "Amateur Telescope Making, Book 1", pages 52-56 (Albert G.
Ingalls, Editor, Scientific American, Kingsport Press, copyright 1952,
1955). Your library should be able to find you a copy.


Lapidary Arts and Faceters Digest wrote:
> _______________________________________________________________
> Message:07
> Subject: Protractor accuracy
> Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 20:50:45 EST
> To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
> From: GEMARTSERV@aol.com
> This was my approach....not as fancy or time consuming as cutting a
> retroreflector and using laser lights etc, but it got me pretty darn close.
> Tell me if I am off base.
> I dopped a decent size stone ( about 10 mm ) and set protractor at 45 deg.
> and cut a good size facet at index 96. Size is unimportant. Then I turned
> to the 48 index and cut another facet to the same depth. Obviously,it is
> very important that both are cut to exactly the same depth. I used a 600 lap
> if I recall correctly.
> Remove dop from quill and take to your nearest hardware store and find a
> machinist's square. Hold dopped stone in the 90 deg. right angle corner of
> the square. and hold up to a light background. If you have your own
> machinist's square, more power to you. If you observe any "daylight" you can
> see whether you are plus or minus a little in the 90 deg. opening. Go back
> home and fine tune your equipment and do it again. An optical comparitor that
> many inspection labs have would be even better, but since I am now retired I
> really don't want to drive 200 miles round trip to my old place of employment
> to ask them to do a "government" job for me.
> The second cycle did it for me. I'm happy that at 45 deg. I am mighty close
> to 90 deg. when they are added together.. Therefore, at normal culet angles
> etc I'm confident I'm OK.
> I have a Vargas Fac-A-Gem machine with a separate handpiece....not unlike the
> Raytech. My slight adjustment was to move ( bend) the protractor angle
> indicating arm a small fraction of a degree.
> I'd be glad to answer any questions as long as they don't involve those mast
> and staff machines. I love the separate hand piece approach to faceting.
> Jerry Newman


Subject: GemCad Designs
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:19:02 -0600
To: "IFA Faceters Digest Post" <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Robert Strickland" <robstr@sbcglobal.net>

>It would be great if Robert would make an addition to GemCad with a file
>that contained 10 or 12 basic designs we could bring up and modify to our
> liking

GemCad for Windows comes with a set of 25 designs. If you accepted
the default folder names when you installed the program, these can
be found in

C:\Program Files\GemCadWin\Designs

Of these designs, the Novice Cushion Triangle and the Cube Illusion Triangle
are good beginner designs. The Square Dozen is probably next in degree
of difficulty.

Robert Strickland


Subject: Re: Issue No.9 - Friday November 15, 2002 hand piece approach
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 17:26:19 EST
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: Bellcha7@aol.com

I know I'm going to make some people mad when I say this, but cutting gems
with a mast is like walking a througbred around a maypole,you,re attached to
a pole...chained like a slave.
Take it from someone who worked in a repair & production shop in Denver Co.
in the 70's from cabbing, up through faceting the first C.Z. from U.S.S.R.
,across the street from the EMPIRE STATE BUILDING in N.Y. ;before they could
even detect C.Z.
I even left the whole industry ,because of the greed in the jewelry
part, and the conscription ones neck has to make to the mast form of gem
cutting.Oh those mast ..they look so erect ,standing there, promissing such
fine accuracy.They don't reveil the challenge the cutter's better half
will have, trying to undo the livelong crook in the faceters
sternomastoid,and trapezius muscels,from the 1000's of hours of repeatitive
motion in servitude to "KING MAST".
Not until the 90's in the wee hours of the morning when I saw Tony T.
demonstrating his cutting with a Ray Tech did I see any light at the end of
the tunnel.Just like Real diamond cutters the hand piece, allows you the
freedom to even take your stone to the "THRONE ROOM" and sit there and study
it ,if you have the notion;it's like a pilot flying solo,..you can turn your
stone any which way , in any light ,it can sit besides you on the front seat
on a quick unexpected errand(some of those taffic jams can get stressfull)and
with the aircraft carrier elevator principal ,you can bring your stone in on
the landing lap, to the infinnite pitch of the earth;showing you a color only
god lets you see first. CHARLES W. BELL JR.


Hi Charles, I started out faceting with a LAP LAP which is about the most basic
handpiece design available. It had definite advantages over my ultra-tec for the
very reasons you state above. Only problem with the Lap Lap is the wrist motion
needed to run it since no power head is used.


Subject: Thanks for the help with the Princess cut
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 00:51:57 -0500
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "michael lauer" <lakeout@charter.net>

What a great group of people. I have had the most fabulous response to my
question regarding a design for a Princess cut. Linda is waiting for me to
start cutting. Special thanks to Ron Steck for his copy of Princess2.asc. It
was the only round design I received. I did not know that most Princess cuts
were square. Needless to say round or square I appreciate all of the input

Many thanks,
Mike and Linda


Subject: Princess Cut Diagram
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 00:59:14 -0500
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: Donald Allen <donallen@gwi.net>

Hi Thurmond,

This may be of help to the person requesting diagram for Princess cut:

Index of Online Faceting Articles, Tips and How-to
'Just ask Jeff' FAQs by Jeff Graham

Click on
What is a princess cut?



Subject: Hello
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 15:05:55 EST
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: Ame8190@aol.com

Hello, I am very new to faceting and have just retired and now would like to
go into faceting on a semi full time bases but before I continue I would like
to ask those who are experienced and would know if and what type of markets
are out there in this field and can one with enough practice make a living
with this.Thanks-Ed


Subject: RE: Microwave heat treatment
From: MARKBA2575@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 22:31:48 EST
To: owner-faceters@caprock-spur.com

I decided to give the Microwave a try just because i was curious. I did not
get any results with a large topaz that I had but I had some Zircon that I
decided to try out. I put the stone in for 7 mins. using the same method as
perscribed on your earlier post and to my suprise the peach colored stone
came out almost the color of an orange Spessartite. That color didn't last
but a few hours. I wonder if I were to slow down the cooling process if that
would help keep some of the color. Any Idea's?


Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 00:44:12 EST
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com .

Hello to the Group. Thank You for inviting me to join. I am a member of the
San Diego Mineral and Gem Society, where I enjoy faceting and other
activities such as field trips, pot luck food episodes and gem and mineral
shows, etc. I started faceting about 12 or more years ago. We use the
Ultra-Tech machines and they are fun and easy to use. Thank You again,
Respectfully, Bob Hancock


Hale Sweeny's Lapidary Digest Archives http://www.lapidarydigest.com/
International Lapidary Association http://www.gemcutters.org


Facetron: http://www.facetron.com/
Graves: http://www.rockhounds.com/graves/
MDR: http://www.mdr-facet.com/
Polymetric: http://www.polymetricinc.com/
Ultra-tec: http://www.ultratec-facet.com
Fac-Ette Manufacturing Company: (910)256-9248
http://www.fac-ette.com/ 800-336-9248.
Raytech Industries: http://www.raytech-ind.com
Rock Peddler: 1-800-416-4348 / www.rockpeddler.com



Accredited Gemologists Association, http://aga.polygon.net/
American Gem Society, (AGS) 702-255-6500
American Gem Trade Association, (AGTA) http://www.agta.org
Gemmological Assc. & GTL / Great Britain, http://www.gagtl.ac.uk/gagtl
Gemmological Association of Australia, http://www.gem.org.au
Gemological Institute of America, (GIA) http://www.gia.edu.giagem
International Gem Society (IGS) web site is: http://www.gemsociety.org
International Colored Gemstone Association, http://www.gemstone.org


FACETING GUILDS (Alphabetically, World) ~

*Charleston Faceting Guild, South Carolina, wmcnay@mindspring.com.
*Columbia-Willamette Faceter's Guild, http://www.facetersguild.com/
*Danish Faceters Guild, http://medlem.spray.se/danfacet/
*East/Central Florida:Tomoka Gem and Mineral Society's Faceters Guild,
Don Cameron: ghgemcutter@earthlink.net
*Eastern Mass Faceter's Group, rockpeddler@attbi.com
*Faceter's Forum Society-LaPorte, IN VESteele@aol.com
*Faceter's Guild of N. California, Wayne Meissner, lklomp@cnetech.com
*Faceter's Guild of S. California, Jerry W. Carroll, (818)348-6327
*Intermountain Faceter's Guild, Carl M. Unruh, (360)385-3753
*Midwest Faceter's Guild, E-mail: tgibbs@compuserve.com
*Mid-Williamette Faceters Guild, Albany, Oregon, Michael E. Bumcrot;
E-mail @ MBumcrot@valleyoilco.com
*Moreton Bay is a branch of the Australian Facetors' Guild, Brisbane,
Queensland. http://cwpp.slq.qld.gov.au/afg
*New Mexico Faceter's Guild, Nancy Attaway, attaway@highfiber.com
*North Puget Sound Faceting Guild, Keith Wyman, tfw@fidalgo.net
*Tacoma Faceting Guild, Chuck Bloch chuck_b@prodigy.net
*Texas Faceter's Guild, Jill Rowlands, gemsbyj@aol.com
*Seattle Faceting Club (LeonardBahr@prodigy.net)
*United States Faceting Guild (Keith Wyman, tfw@fidalgo.net)
*Vancouver Island Faceters' Guild - British Columbia, Canada.

(Add your faceting organization here, US or International - Write to
( owner-lapidary@caprock-spur.com or owner-faceters@caprock-spur.com )



I've always ordered beverages one simple way: "A Coke, please."

Lately, though, this hasn't seemed to work. Waitresses now often
respond, "I'm sorry, we don't have Coke. We have Pepsi, Diet
Pepsi, Dr. Pepper, Mr. Pibb."

Tired of listening to the long list of soft drinks, I thought I'd make
life easier. So one day I simply asked the snack bar clerk at a movie
theater for a "dark, carbonated beverage."

The young man behind the counter chuckled and asked, "Sir, would
you like a cylindrical plastic sucking device with that?"



" Time is relentless by nature.
Regrets are the still-born of time.
Forgive then forget,
And the game of time
Will put your soul at ease."

--- Author Unknown ---



Subject: CRISIS** Midnight Land Grab!!!
From: Robert L. Cranston
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 8:27 AM

CRISIS** Midnight Land Grab!!!


*** YOUR HELP NEEDED !!!!! ***
**** WE CAN WIN WITH YOUR HELP !!!!! ****
S. 990 - The "Son of CARA" - a version of CARA - the Condemnation and
Relocation Act - is on the fast track and moving through Congress! This
discredited land grab bill had not moved for eleven months, until the
dark of nite in the wee hours of Friday morning.

ONCE AGAIN, selected members of Congress have moved legislation - S.
990 - in the dead of night that will

1) make the Endangered Species Act EVEN WORSE,

2) permit SEIZURE of private property, and

3) hand out cash to environmental extremists and animal rights outfits!!!

Oh yes, and 4) it hands out up to $25 million to foreign countries for
land acquisition. We couldn't make this up, folks!

You may recall at the end of 2001, just four days before Christmas, the
Senate approved S. 990 - the "Son of CARA" land grab bill. It was 11:45pm,
with only three Senators present, NO debate, NO hearings, NO vote - just
"unanimous consent" on their last night in session for the year, after
nearly all Senators had left the Capitol.


This time it was the House of Representatives. It was the last day the
House was in session for the year, November 15, 2:35am!!!! That's right,
two thirty-five in the morning!!!!!!!

Nearly all congressmen had gone home, NO debate, NO hearings, NO vote, just
"unanimous consent" and a BILLION dollar enviro pork barrel land
grabbing disaster - S. 990, the "Son of CARA" - was approved.

HOWEVER - the Senate last year, and the House this year, approved DIFFERENT
versions of S. 990.

The House is now out of session for the rest of 2002. However, the
Senate is in session for one more week, from November 18 to 21.

*** The Senate must vote on what the House just passed in order to give
final congressional approval to S. 990. ***

******* ACTION ITEM BELOW !!! *******

******* TELL YOUR SENATOR ******* NO on S. 990 *******


WHY are REPUBLICAN Senator Bob Smith of New Hampshire and REPUBLICAN
Congressman Jim Hansen of Utah joining together and attempting to push
this disaster through at the last minute??

ANSWER: BOTH are leaving Congress this year, and BOTH are in "Legacy
Mode." BOTH have buried provisions in S. 990 to give a name for
themselves, at the expense of private property and fiscal responsibility.

####### HERE is the item snuck in for New Hampshire by Senator Bob
Smith. Page 19, "Grants to the State of New Hampshire." A NINE million dollar
payoff handed over to the Trust for Public Land, to buy property that
will only cost SEVEN million dollars!!! A two million dollar profit for a
"non-profit" land trust!!!!!!!

####### UTAH: Jim Hansen is attempting to blow a total of THIRTEEN
million dollars of taxpayer funds to glorify himself! On page 49 is two
million dollars for the James V. Hansen Shoshone Trail. On page 52 is
eleven million dollars for the Bear River Visitor Center to be named
after - you guessed it - James V. Hansen!!!!!!!!

This self glorification is bad enough. But here are the FOUR problems
for everyone in the entire country with S. 990:

FIRST: It will make the Endangered Species Act EVEN WORSE by adding a
new category called "species at risk" in addition to the current
species" and "endangered species." It hands out up to $150 million per
to "environmental organizations," with no prohibition on animal rights
outfits receiving funds, to enforce this new category.

SECOND: It hands out $50 million per year to states for "cooperative
conservation" plans that include "property acquisition" with no
prohibition on condemnation power.

THIRD: hands out up to $50 million per year for "shrubland and
grassland" conservation, with "environmental organizations" again eligible to feed at
the taxpayer trough. EVEN WORSE - grass and shrubs are defined as, well,
grass and shrubs - AND - areas "historically dominated" by grass and
shrubs - AND - areas that "if restored to natural grassland or
shrubland, would have the potential to serve as habitat for endangered
species, threatened species, or species at risk." In other words, just
about every inch of America outside the Mojave Desert!!!!!!!!!!!


You must call AND Fax both your Senators so their offices are deluged
with messages beginning Monday morning. This is not a time you can depend on
someone else. YOU must do it.

Tell your Senator to put a hold on S 990. Ask his staff person for a
commitment that his or her boss will do it. Follow up to make sure they
did it. Then you must keep up the pressure to make sure the hold is not
taken off.

Any Senator can stop S 990 by simply putting a hold on the bill. That
will delay it until next year. But you must make sure the hold gets put on
and stays on. Don't assume that because the staff person tells you the hold
is on, that it is on. Keep calling.

The Senate is an old boys club and they try to get along by going along.
Also, its very late. It is a lame duck session. Many Senators are not
paying attention. They just want to get out of town.

-----1. Write a fax immediately and fax it to your Senator. If you
don't have his or her fax, call Monday morning early and get it. Insist that
he or she put a hold on S 990.

-----2. Early Monday morning call both your Senators. Every Senator may
be called at (202) 224-3121 or the temporary FREE NUMBER: (800)
648-3516. Don't take your Senator for granted.

-----3. Call at least three times on Monday. A vote is likely late in
the day. It could be delayed until Tuesday so keep calling Tuesday.

-----4. Call your friends, neighbors, associations and anyone else you
can to get them to call and fax. This is a big deal. And you can win.


Rough to Cut
If you're looking for quality facet rough please check out Rough to Cut,
http://www.roughtocut.com. We offer a wide range of quality facet rough
from Aquamarine to Zircon. Large selections in stock currently of Beryl,
Garnets & Tourmalines. Please check us out & when you do, why not give a
try to our contest, you could win a 5ct + piece of Spessartite garnet
facet rough.

Rough to Cut


Facet polishing laps
Still have a couple of dozen Vargas Pol-A-Gem laps left. Only Cerium Oxide
in 6" size. There will be no more 8". Glenn really is not interested in
fiddling with his lathe to correct his maching problems at 8". He and his
protoge, Dick Rugel, will make more 6" if there is demand. There is nothing
faster,better or more durable than a Pol-A-Gem for quartz,sunstone, opal etc.
One lap should last a lifetime ....and they DO NOT SCRATCH. They also work
great on 8" machines. Lemme know your interest. Price delivered in US is
Jerry Newman Gemart Services gemartserv@aol.com


Subject: AD
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 20:50:44 -0800
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: "P. Miklik" <b-daw@pacbell.net>

Contact b-daw@pacbell.net

Honey, red & brown zircons, 10g parcels @$20/parcel

Red Garnet $8/g, eye clean-slightly included
Spessartine Garnet $7.50/g, slight-moderately included
Malaya Garnet $6/g, good eye clean roughs
Tunduri Garnet $10/g, eye clean-slightly included

Pink Tourmaline $20/g, eye clean-slightly included
Red Tourmaline $10/g, slight-moderately included
Bicolor Tourmaline $15/g, eye clean
Watermelon Tourmaline $20/g eye clean
Green/Green Blue Tourmaline $10/g, eye clean roughs

Blue, Green & Blue/Green Sapphires $35/g, eye clean-slightly
included, up to 1g.

Blue Beryl (Aquamarine) $6/g, eye clean-slightly included crystals
Green Beryl (Emerald) $10-$50/g, eye clean-slightly included crystals,
zoned green
Cabbing Grade Aquamarine $3/g


Must sell the following rough - no reasonable offer refused -

Rose Malaya Garnet - deep red, eye clean african material - 1 kg available -
$2.00/gram for quantities of 500 grams or more

Red Zircon - eye clean african material - 300g available - $2.00/gram if you
take the entire 300 grams

Spessartite Orange Garnet - slightly to moderately included African
material - Ranges from 1.5 - 3 cts size - $7.50 per gram if you take the
entire 300 grams

I have put pictures of the rough and stones cut from it on the web -
check it out at: http://www.wintershill.com/rough

You can email me (Richard) for more info or ?'s at: wntrhill@somtel.com

Rock Peddler
Complete online discount catalog for cabbing and faceting machines, wheels,
laps, polishes, diamond saws, diamond blades, and general lapidary supplies
at http://www.rockpeddler.com.


Gewelers Gems
e-mail: sales@jewelersgems.com
Solid copper laps 1/4 thick 8" and 6" you can charge both sides with
diamond. http://www.jewelersgems.com/faceting_laps.htm


RRGaetan GEM BROKERS < "Quality gem rough for discriminating gem-cutters."
We serve hand-select (and bulk/parcels, too!), affordable, quality gem rough
in a variety of materials. Our most recent arrivals: Aug. 2 ­ Aquamarine,
Spessartite and Tourmaline. For details and a colorful, interactive e-flyer
(PDF), email rrgaetan@san.rr.com and ask for "The Rough List."




For All National and International Masters, Past-Masters and
World-Class Cutters:

This post is simply a reminder that in 2003 the USFG will host its
first National and International Faceting Competition. It is called
the North American Faceting Challenge -- 'NAFC.' Since the designs
and rules were first published in the 2001 September Issue of the
USFG's Newsletter, and since they have not been published since 2001,
some of you, who are most capable - skill-wise, may not
know about the competition, and some of you may have forgotten. The
"NAFC" is an OPEN Competition. Please note: The designs and rules
can be downloaded at <http://www.usfacetersguild.org/events.shtml>.
The closing date is June 20th, 2003; the amount of time between the
present date and June 20th, 2003 should be enough for all Master
cutters to cut the two required designs -- Fred Van Sant's "Four
Star," and Charles Covill's "Wind Wheel No. 2." If further
information is needed, please contact me at <clmoon@pacbell.net>.

Charlie Moon




Just a reminder that the St. Lucie Rock & Gem Club will be hosting their 25th
annual show at the Ft. Pierce Civic Center (25th St. & Virginia Ave.), on
November 9th & 10th. Saturday 10-6, and Sunday 10 - 5.
I'll be demonstrating both days.
Norm Holbert
Port St. Lucie, FL


Canaveral Mineral & Gem Society is again presenting
our yearly gem show, the Parade of Gems, November 23rd and 24th at the
Melbourne auditorium, 625 E Hibiscus Blvd in Melbourne, FL, from 10AM to
6PM. Admission is $3, with kids under 12 admitted free.


Tomoka Gem and Mineral Society's annual show will be held on Dec. 14 and 15 at
the Volusia County Fairgrounds, located on state route 44 in Deland, Florida.
Fairgrounds are 1 mile east of interstate route 4 at exit 118. We will have at
least one showcase of faceted gems done by our members. Thank you, John Withey



Presented by the Faceter's Guild of Southern California
At the Seaside GEMboree AFMS/CFMS Convention & Show
Ventura, California June 6-7-8, 2003

You are invited to participate in the Faceters
Symposium 2003 which will be held at the Seaside Park
(Ventura Fairgrounds) at Ventura, California during the
AFMS/CFMS Convention & Show. The Faceters Symposium dates
are June 6th, 7th, & 8th. That is Friday, Saturday, &
Sunday. The CFMS GEMboree is on those dates as well as on
Thursday the 5th of June. All of this is at the same
location, just a hundred yards from the beach.

The Faceters Symposium will feature ten speakers, who
will have presentations covering various parts of gemstone
faceting interests. A Hospitality Hour on Friday evening
and a Saturday Awards Luncheon are also part of the
Symposium. There will be competitions at the Novice,
Advanced, & Masters levels. Get started on your
competition entry soon.

The CFMS GEMboree itself will have buildings that have
exhibits on display, dealers with their wares to offer,
demonstrators to show how it is done, and speakers with
presentations covering other lapidary fields of interest.

For information & costs regarding the Faceters
Symposium (including competition information), your contact
is listed below. Ask for one of the Packets. Be sure to
state your snail mailing address so that a Packet can be
mailed to you.

Glenn Klein, Chairman
24001 Muirlands Blvd., Space #79
Lake Forest, CA 92630 email: glennklein@yahoo.com


Roanoke Valley Mineral & Gem Society - 22nd Annual Show at the
Salem Civic Center, Salem, VA 11/29-12/1/02. Thanks,Larry White



KANSAS: If anyone in the central portion of the country from Oklahoma city
to Wichita to Kansas City would be interested in forming something like the
Flatland Facet Guild or some such name give me a line at
Larry W. Davis

ILLINOIS - MISSOURI (Central Area, hubed around St. Louis, Missouri) A
group of 4 faceters have met and we had a great time. We intend to meet
again and would like to have fellow faceters join our group. I received an
email from another Newbie that expressed interest in attending our next get
together. Faceters from any and all areas are welcome... It's swell to meet
personally and exchange tips and hints! COME JOIN OUR GROUP! It's FREE! ;o)
Doug Smith, Alton, IL .at: gembin@spiff.net

INDIANA: I moved to Valparaiso, (Northwest) Indiana, about three years ago.
Are there any clubs in this area? or is there anyone interested in starting
one? I do faceting and some cabbing. Not much here but cornfields. Nice
scenery, but I get sooooooo lonely. LOL Let me know. (Bill) "William
J.Pysnack" <wjpin@home.com>

S.E. LOUISIANA: Anyone in or around the New Orleans, LA area wishing to
form a club or have get togethers for faceting, discussions, cabbing,
procurement, etc. Please contact me via email @ tbird@bayouself.org. (Thom
Bird - Chalmette, LA)

MISSISSIPPI: If anyone is near Meridian Mississippi and would be interested
in forming some kind of club or just get together with faceting and/or
cabbing please e-mail me at jennings@netdoor.com Thanks, Jim

TEXAS: Anyone in the Corpus Christi or Coastal Bend area that is interested
in starting a local faceter's guild contact me at: hankswan@earthlink.net or
gemscc@msn.com or telephone 361-857-2405 (days) or 361-992-1296
(evenings).Hank swan

WASHINGTON DC.(Rockville Md area) Looking for folks to get together
occasionally to facet. I have just started faceting and am also interested
in sphere making (infinate # of facets) Robert Winfield

Lurking is fine, but participation is more fun!! Get involved!!


Thurmond Moore III/ Moderator

Fred Ward / Moderator - Gemology

Tempie Francis, Attorney at Law / Legal Advisor


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