Issue No.26 - Thursday December 12, 2002
Moderated by:
Thurmond Moore III & Fred Ward (Gemology)
Committed to carrying on the fine works started
by Hale Sweeny and Jerry Dewbre
Click a link below to post to the list:
for faceting questions faceters@caprock-spur.com
for lapidary questions lapidary@caprock-spur.com
From the Moderator:

Hi all,

Paul Ahlstedt has ask me to let members of this list
who also belong to his list know that the IFA list will
not resume publication. He also requested that all
faceting discussion from the IFA list be relocated here.


Index to Today's Digest

Lapidary Messages:
01 Re: Labradorite
02 Re: Spectrolite Rough Wanted

Faceting Messages:
03 Re: Dichroic/Pleochroic orientation.
04 Re: Orienting Sunstone
05 Re: Orienting Sunstone
06 Re: Alignment Problems with the Raytech-Shaw
07 Re: Alignment Problems with the Raytech-Shaw
08 Re: Alignment Problems with the Raytech-Shaw
09 Re: Alignment Problems with the Raytech-Shaw
10 Re: Alignment Problems with the Raytech-Shaw
11 Re: Alignment Problems with the Raytech-Shaw



Subject: Labradorite
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 21:40:26 -0500
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com
From: "Don Sommerfield" <dlsomm@hotmail.com>

One of the best ways to orient labradorite is to place your rough stone
against the edge of your bench with a strong light over it below eye level.
Roll the stone until you get the best play of color. Now, mark the rough
with a heavy marker paralllel to the table top. Next rotate the stone 90
degrees and repeat the proceedure and mark the stone again with the two
lines joining. You can now saw and get equal quality slabs on each slice.
This also works for tigereye.


Subject: Spectrolite Rough Wanted
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 19:43:53 -0800 (PST)
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com
From: Dale Rhode <rhodescabbin@yahoo.com>

Hi All,

Thurmond, speaking of Spectrolite does anyone know where to get ahold of some rough Spectro
without paying a fortune??? I spent an hour on the net last night searching and the best I could
find was to go to Quartzite but I doubt if we will make it this year...If anyone out there has
some spectro and wants to sell, or trade, as I have a huge pile of Old Biggs w/blues I can trade
some choice pieces, just let me know.........Thanks,

Dale Rhode.....Rhodes Cabbin And Gems


Hi Dale, I purchased my spectrolite last April at a show from
The Unconvential Lapadirist. I don't remember the price.



Subject: Dichroic/Pleochroic orientation.
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 21:27:51 -0500
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com (LapidaryArtsDigest)
From: "Jonathan L. Rolfe" <webmaster@gearloose.com>

>Also I would like to toss out a faceting question:
>What hints does anyone have concerning orientation
>of dichroic rough? Tourmaline for example.

I was playing around with some different orientations a few years ago:
http://www.gearloose.com/gemx.html Near the bottom of the page are some
examples I did years ago in topazes.


Thanks Jon, neat pics.


Subject: Re: Orienting Sunstone
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 14:10:05 -0700
To: LapidaryArtsDigest <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: John McLaughlin <jemstone@amug.org>

From: "lenard TAN"

> does anyone who knows about cutting the sunstones. Our factory manager wants to know what
> is the best and quickest way to orient the Schiller.

Hi All,

While I have no information to impart about quickly orienting schiller sunstones other than the
normal use of an overhead light source and marking pens, I do have a related question.

When cutting schiller stones I have a hard time determining where the copper platelets are that
produce the schiller effect. The orientation of the schiller is not in question, but how deep
or shallow the plane of copper platelets is my concern. This has an impact on the size of the
finished stone. After the orientation is determined, the stone is ground over and under the
schiller layer. If I could mark the side of the stone where the schiller layer is located I
would have an indication of how much rough could come off the top and/or bottom. Not knowing
where that layer is risks the same problem as cutting right through the plane of color on an

Some stones have enough copper plates to determine their location. However, schiller that is
not as strong is harder to assess.

Any advice?

John McLaughlin
Glendale, Arizona


Subject: orienting
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 09:16:26 -0500
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: "Frank lavin" <nival42@hotmail.com>

I cut for color. I will sacrifice weight to get the best color. I try to
buy the rough so the best color gives the highest yield, but if it is not
possible I'll cut for color.



Subject: Alignment Problems with the Raytech-Shaw
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 23:02:13 -0500
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Peter L. Herschman, M.D." <herschm@golden.net>

Dear Jill and Ray:

For several years I used a Raytech and had a similar problem. Mine stemmed
from the platen under the handpiece proving slightly wobbly due to
misalignment. Discovered by Al Manestar who was examining the machine when I
could find nothing wrong, he repaired it with some epoxy.

In my searches for problems, I examined my transfer jig, using two perfectly
straight, drill rods (quarter-inch as were my dops) machined to exact
specifications with a flat surface at 90 degrees at their ends. Perfect
alignment of the jig was found when I could rub my fingers along the rod
ends as they touched with no groove or ridge. This was another of Al's

Still further research moved to my "cheater" on the handpiece, and the
little feet of the handpiece tripod which need to be at the same level, much
as Thurmond wrote.

A loose tightening ring or uneven lap can also cause similar effects. I
suspect the consistency of the crown table facet dislocation leads toward a
platen or handpiece problem.

I hope my own self-doubts as a result of the difficulty finding the
misalignment in my own machine are not repeated with the two of you. I was
very discouraged until Al discovered the mistake was in the machine, not my

Best wishes,

Peter L. Herschman, M.D.


Subject: Misalignment.
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 23:16:38 -0800
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Thomas M. Donahue" <oldcrow@oregonfcu.com>

Jill St. Michael,

Assuming that your laps are flat the only thing that can cause the
problem that you are having is a misalignment somewhere. I've had
two things cause it for me. One was a poor alignment during
transfer. This can be checked by chucking up the dop that is on the
pavilion in a drill motor while the other dop is still attached and spin
it. If there is a bad alignment it will show up by wobbling. The
other time, it turned out to be the collet on the hand piece. It had
become egg shaped and when I tightened it up there was a bad alignment.
I found this by putting a gob of children's modeling clay on my master
lap, into which stuck a large darning needle in the vertical position.
I set the hand piece at 90 degrees with your doped stone in place and
lowered it to almost touching the needle, then slowly rotated the hand
piece observing the gab between the point of the needle and the girdle
of the stone. Now there will be a little difference between the flats
and the points of the girdle but by careful observation you will be able
to tell if the stone is true. I'm sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Tom Donahue oldcrow@oregonfcu.com


Subject: Re: crooked table
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 23:37:26 -0800
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com
From: Tony <lightbender@thegemdoctor.com>

On December 11, 2002 05:23 pm, you wrote:
> This is very discouraging
> and is interfering with my joy and enthusiasm! Every time I
> want to cut a stone I think "what for? to facet a gem with a
> crooked table?!"

Hello Jill,

When I first started faceting I too tried cutting the table last
and was very discouraged with the results. After very few stones
I tried cutting and polishing the table first. Needless to say
in the last 30 yrs I have not bothered attempting to cut
'backwards' again.

I have a list of the many advantages if you are interested, I
have yet to hear a valid argument against this approach.



Subject: transfer
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 09:24:02 EST
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: Scanlanmg@aol.com

Hi Jill,

Have I been in your shoes!! I cut on a Raytech for 4 years before moving on
to a Facetron. During this period, I too fought the same girdle problem and
could never figure it out.... until I purchased a new transfer jig. Now I
only have to make very minor adjustments if at all. If you are using the
Raytech transfer jig, I highly recommend you consider replacing it as in my
case, this was my problem. Suggest you query the group and see what the
general opinion is of the Raytech transfer equipment. Maybe you and I are
the only ones with this problem. Sure.

Good luck!

Mike Scanlan
Pebble Designs
PO Box 1014
Hixson TN 37343


Subject: Re:Raytec alignment.
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 10:50:10 -0800
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com (LapidaryArtsDigest)
From: Don Rogers <Don@Campbell-gemstones.com>

I have cut on a Raytech for about eight years now, and for the last two, I
have been working on ways to improve the experience. I wrote an article on
machine alignment which was in this years Lapidary Journal Buyers Guide
issue. I also have a site for alignment procedures for the Raytech, and a
partially completed section on my RayDial modification.
http://www.campbell-gemstones.com/RayTech/ for the alignment article. Its
about 7 pages long so keep using the next button
http://www.campbell-gemstones.com/raydial/ This is still a very much in
the works piece. The last html file gives some of the issues with the raytech.

Thurmond's comment about the platform to lap alignment is
correct. However, it is not the first thing to make adjustments for.

The heart of any faceting machine is the lap. Every movement or adjustment
on the machine is in reference to the lap. Now the lap path is determined
first by the spindle, so this is the starting place for resolving alignment
problems. Your spindle first of all needs to be smooth and it needs to be
tight. By this, I mean no sloppy bearings are allowed, but you don't want
it so tight that you can't easily turn it by hand. To check out the
spindle properly, you need to set up dial indicators, and jack screws to
stress the shaft and check for movement. The next best thing is to mount a
lap and then grab it by the ears and rock side to side, up and down. back
and forth, etc. If there is any slop, in the bearings you should feel a
slight clunk. Any movement that you can feel needs to be fixed. This test
should be performed after the machine has been running for at least an hour
to get things warmed up.

After you have determined that the spindle is tight and running true and
quite, then you need to check the platen. You will need a ceramic disk,
and a dial indicator to do this. A ceramic is less likely to have any
wobble built in, and you can't bend it or put dents in it to cause
problems. Just make sure it is clean and doesn't have any gunk on the hub
area. If you have an indicated wobble, you need to have the platen
trued. The most accurate way to do this is to re-machine the surface while
it is spinning in its own bearings. Polymetric makes a platen and lap
truing tool. It is not cheep, but for a club, it would be a good
investment. It can be mounted on almost any faceting machine. For the
Raytech, you will need to drill and tap one hole in the base plate. If you
don't have access to this tool, or a machine shop who can do the setup and
cut, then you may need to send your machine in to get this resolved. The
bottom line here is that you must be able to spin a known true lap with
"ZERO" wobble. If you can't get to this point, any adjustments you make to
your machine will just be Kentucky windage.

After the spindle is correct, the next step is to make sure the platform or
mast is in alignment with the spindle. For our discussions here, I am only
going to talk about the Raytech. Again, before doing any check of platform
alignment, you need to make sure it is not wobbling. Again the dial
indicator comes into play. Set it up and check that the platform is
spinning true. Unfortunatly few of them are dead on, but if they have less
than 0.002" wobble, and is not a ripple with more than one dip per
revolution, then you can live with it, but you need to know where it is.

Now, again using the dial indicator, check the platform to lap
alignment. You should have less than 0.001" of difference when swinging
the dial from full front to full back across the lap. You also want to
check if your platform it tipped to or away from the lap by sliding the
dial from the spindle nut to the edge of the lap. Again you should have no
variance. When doing this check, it is important to have the low spot of
the platform in cutting position. I position the low spot at the lap. I
then use a red sharpie and make a big visible mark on the edge of the
platform so I am looking at the red mark as I am cutting . If you align
the mark at this spot for all adjustments, and cut with the mark there, a
very slight wobble in the platform will not be a problem.

Once you have the spindle true, and the platform aligned to it. then you
can focus on the handpiece. I am not going to go into details here as the
alignment is on my site and in my Lapidary Journal article. The important
thing to note though, is that you don't start making adjustments to the
handpiece until you have the rest of the machine in place. These are
sequence sensitive adjustments. This applies to the mast machines
also. If the mast/quill swing is not parallel with the lap, then angle and
index alignments don't mean a thing.

If your machine is fairly new, and still under warranty, I would send it
back to the manufacture to get the problems resolved. When describing the
problem, tell them what is wrong with the machine, not what is wrong with
the stones you are cutting. IE tell them that the platform is not swinging
parallel to the lap by 0.005". Don' tell them that you get a saw tooth
girdle. You are more likely to get the problem resolved by accurately
describing it in a manner that they can duplicate your observations. I
have found Raytech, as well as other manufactures to be responsive to

Other complaints about the Raytech revolve around the transfer jig. I have
yet to find a Raytech jig that was giving bad transfers, to be clean or
undamaged. The Raytech jig is a very accurate jig IF used correctly and
maintained. The V grove needs to be kept clean of wax, epoxy, and
dirt. It also needs to be dent free. The same goes for the edge of the
grove where the alignment pins go. The same need to be said about your
dops. They need to be clean and free of dents and dings. The alignment
pin needs to be straight. Dop technique is important. First, I never seat
the lower dop all the was to the bottom of the platform, but leave about a
mm of clearance. Make sure both the upper and lower dops have the pin
seated on the ledge correctly, both on the same side, the one where the
push lever is. When closing the two dops together, don't push the upper
dop down using anything other than the push lever. If you push on the dop,
you will rotate it and loose alignment. I always transfer using 5 minute
epoxy. I wet both the stone and the new dop. I carefully push the dops
together but I stop just short of contact between the stone and the new
dop, In other words, I bed the stone on the new dop in epoxy. This
prevents any spring action on the dops and the resulting miss
alignment. Make sure the epoxy is fully cured before removing the dops
from the jig. I place a 100W bulb about 4 inches away from the dops for
about 1 to 1.5 hrs to insure a good hardening of the epoxy. I then let the
jig and dops come back to room temperature before removing the dops. Make
sure you keep the new joint cool when removing the old dop. One last point
on dops is that they need to be EXACTLY the same diameter, and of a uniform
diameter. If they have a variance in diameter, IE measurements along the
length of the dop show 0.250", 0.249, and 0.248, the the dop is going to
set in the jig at an angle. If one dop is 0.250" and the other is 0.248",
then they are not going to be in radial alignment, but offset.

The index gear is the last issue I have with the Raytech, and one that I
haven't come up with a field fix for as yet. The problem is not that the
gears are cut wrong, but that the hub they ride on is sometimes slightly
undersized. Some of the gears have a bore that is slightly over sized.
When the two meet, a problem arises. You can get up to half tooth
mis-alignment of the gear on the quill hub with just 0.002" of
clearance. The "0" will not be a problem, but say on a 96 tooth gear, the
48 index will be off. The real problem with this is on
transfer. Everything looks good. The girdle facet a "0" index is still
flat on the lap, but as you start around the stone, things start to go
wrong. By the time you are at 48, you are way off. You started ;using the
cheater at about the 24 index and had to keep adding a little more as you
got to the 48 index. Now on the down side you are over corrected and have
to cheat the other way. It drives you nuts. The transfer jig is bad, you
just know it. The transfer jig is not the problem. To check out your
handpiece and gear, do this mount a dop with a big stone attached for a
handle. Now take the index gear nut off. Rotate the quill so the 48 index
is under the pawl. Now twist the stone right and left to see if there is
any play in the gear to hub. You are likely to see some. This play is how
much you will be out of alignment on the "back side" of the stone. As I
said, I don't have a field fix yet. A couple things I've looked at
follows. One would be to loosen the gear nut and fully rotate the slop out
at 48 and the tighten the nut. Cut the stone, and after the transfer,
loosen the nut and rotate the stone in the opposite direction from the
first rotation and lock down the nut. This should put you back in the same
alignment that you had for the first cut, although the '0" and "48" planes
would not be parallel. The other would to be using small shim stock to
"center" the gear correctly. I have not played with either of these yet as
I am lucky to have a gear that fits well. The real fix would be to custom
fit a set of gears to your handpiece. Some time after the first of the
year, I'll tackle this issue for a fix.



Subject: Problem with misalignment
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:09:03 -0500
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: "Douglas Turet" <anotherbrightidea@hotmail.com>

Jill wrote:

"...but am discouraged over some odd recurring problem with
misalignment. When cutting a SRB, we encounter the same
problem with a misaligned table. Our normal procedure is to preform the
girdle, cut the pavilion, then transfer and begin cutting the table. The
problem becomes apparent after the girdle and star facets have been cut and
we begin to flatten the table. Though the girdle remains even, there is no
symmetry in the table. It's off-center and cuts into the star facets deeply
on one side, never touching the opposite side..."

"This is very discouraging and is interfering with my joy and enthusiasm!
Every time I want to cut a stone I think "what for? to facet a gem with a
crooked table?!" We're using a Raytech-Shaw we've had for about 7 months and
would welcome any feedback."

Hi Jill (and Ray),

I think I may just be able to help out a bit, with this quandary or
yours. As I see it (having used a Shaw facetor at length, some years back)
there are two or three potential culprits that could be responsible for your
recurring misalignment problems. Rather than jumping on one or another, I'll
describe them and pose a few questions, then let you do some investigating
at your end, in hopes of arriving at both an understanding and a solution,
or two...

A) An "aerated" dopping technique,

B) "Cold creep",

C) Mechanical misalignment or instability, and/or

D) Poor quality lap manufacture.

In the first case (An "aerated" dopping technique), could it be that
your dopping technique isn't quite what it could be? (And, G-d only knows,
mine was pretty awful, when I first began, years back!) When you dop a piece
of rough, what steps are you taking to ensure a seamless contact between
your point of control (dop face) and workpiece (rough)? In my technique,
which is almost always a shellac and/or dopwax one, I begin by grinding a
level "false table" with a fairly coarse lap, (such as a 180 or 260 to give
the dopping surface a bit more "tooth"), approximately where my final table
will eventually be located. When this is done, I swipe that surface clean
with Windex on a small piece of paper towel, then gently warm the rough
until dry, about 6" above a low alcohol lamp flame. When dry, I paint a thin
coat of Zinsser shellac onto the surface, then allow that to dry, as before.
Next, I warm a transfer-jig-held dop directly over the lamp in one
hand, and when hot, apply the dop wax in a "buttering" motion, first around
the dop's outer edge then in it's center. Next, I warm the stone, again,
about 4-6" above the lamp, while simultaneously holding the waxed dop 2-3"
above it; when the stone's shellac begins to bubble and the dop's wax flows,
I place the stone on the dop and, with a bit of paper towel to insulate my
fingers, press and rotate the stone into place (measuring and adjusting as
needed, in order to assure an ideal centering of the rough). This takes a
few seconds to a minute longer than many other techniques, but it alleviates
many of the problems I routinely hear others complain of, such as...

"Cold creep"! This is one of the (more polite) names given to what
happens if you either get a little bit of air in between your stone and wax
(as in an incomplete dop adhesion), or press too hard on the handpiece while
cutting or polishing. In short, the stone warms up just enough to slides or
shift its position, either from side to side or in an arc from top to
bottom, just enough to generate either that look on your face or those words
you tend to exclaim, or both! (Manipulative little pebble, isn't it?) The
only four ways around this are:

1) eliminate the chance of air bubbles and poor adhesion (i.e. shellac),
2) monitor the amount of pressure you're using, while faceting,
3) use both more and colder water drips as a cooling agent, to reduce
the chances of the wax warming and, thus, losing its stability, and
4) eliminate the chance of slippage, altogether, by using superglues
or epoxies, instead of waxes.

Have you considered any of these before, Jill?

Now, when you're cutting on the Raytech-Shaw F-1D (or its functionally
identical twin, the Imahashi), you come up against potential mechanical
problems not encountered in its "masted" counterparts. These have to do with
the both the nylon underpinnings of the handpiece (i.e. the two rear pins
which, along with the dopped stone, comprise the "tripod" structure of the
unit) and the threaded riser and rotating platen it sits upon. The first and
simplest cause of instability related to these has to do with those little
pins, and the beneath each of the two heel stops (rear "feet" of the
handpiece). Are they loose? Is it possible that they could be causing your
stone to lean, when you're cutting your tables? What about that platen? Have
you checked its evenness? (Often, on older machines, there're areas of wear
that can cause alignment problems.) Perhaps easiest of all, have you thought
to check the levelness of the platen with a carpenter's "bubble" level? (To
do this, simply place the level atop the platen in both "-" and "i"
directions, make note of the bubble's location, then repeat this with the
metal base plate base (from which it and the "master", or "lap" platen
arise.) Do all of those bubbles "agree"? If so, keep asking questions and
looking elsewhere; if not, a return trip to Raytech (for recalibration) may
be in order. Finally, a few words about faceting laps...
Those darned lap manufacturers! Sheesh!!! Sad, but true, Jill: in my
humble opinion, most faceting laps are made by folks with great
cabochon-cutting technology and hopes of capturing a second market. The vast
majority of flat laps are not truly flat: they either "crown" in the middle,
near the label, or "dish" in the middle and rise up at the outer edge.
Often, the electrobonded laps fall into the first category, and the
resinbonded ones, the latter. (You know those little "cheater" wheels on
your handpiece's heel points? This is why they exist: to overcome just such
By the way, Jill and Ray (and other list readers): I don't know if this
applies to you, or not, but a great many of the faceters I've spoken with,
through the years, have puffed out their chests and boasted to me that
they've "never needed to resort to using a cheater". To my way of thinking,
that's like proudly announcing that you've never sunk to the level of those
who "actually" use the two left burners on their kitchen stoves! How much
ignominy can there be in using a feature on a piece of equipment that's
specifically designed to help us overcome alignment challenges and produce
better craftsmanship? (Just my $0.02 worth.) Well, that's both all the news
that fits, and all the time I can spare, to share it, at the moment! If this
batch of solutions doesn't do the trick for you, please don't hesitate to
pick up the phone and call (especially you, Ray and Jill, since we'll be
talking in a few days, anyway.) Until then,

All the best,

Douglas Turet, GJ
Lapidary Artist, Designer & Goldsmith.
Turet Design
P. O. Box 162
Arlington, MA 02476
Tel. (617) 325-5328
Fax: (928) 222-0815
Email: anotherbrightidea@hotmail.com



Hale Sweeny's Lapidary Digest Archives http://www.lapidarydigest.com/
International Lapidary Association http://www.gemcutters.org


Facetron: http://www.facetron.com/
Graves: http://www.rockhounds.com/graves/
MDR: http://www.mdr-facet.com/
Polymetric: http://www.polymetricinc.com/
Ultra-tec: http://www.ultratec-facet.com
Fac-Ette Manufacturing Company: (910)256-9248
http://www.fac-ette.com/ 800-336-9248.
Raytech Industries: http://www.raytech-ind.com
Rock Peddler: 1-800-416-4348 / www.rockpeddler.com



Accredited Gemologists Association, http://aga.polygon.net/
American Gem Society, (AGS) 702-255-6500
American Gem Trade Association, (AGTA) http://www.agta.org
Gemmological Assc. & GTL / Great Britain, http://www.gagtl.ac.uk/gagtl
Gemmological Association of Australia, http://www.gem.org.au
Gemological Institute of America, (GIA) http://www.gia.edu.giagem
International Gem Society (IGS) web site is: http://www.gemsociety.org
International Colored Gemstone Association, http://www.gemstone.org


FACETING GUILDS (Alphabetically, World) ~

*Charleston Faceting Guild, South Carolina, wmcnay@mindspring.com.
*Columbia-Willamette Faceter's Guild, http://www.facetersguild.com/
*Danish Faceters Guild, http://medlem.spray.se/danfacet/
*East/Central Florida:Tomoka Gem and Mineral Society's Faceters Guild,
Don Cameron: ghgemcutter@earthlink.net
*Eastern Mass Faceter's Group, rockpeddler@attbi.com
*Faceter's Forum Society-LaPorte, IN VESteele@aol.com
*Faceter's Guild of N. California, Wayne Meissner, lklomp@cnetech.com
*Faceter's Guild of S. California, Jerry W. Carroll, (818)348-6327
*Intermountain Faceter's Guild, Carl M. Unruh, (360)385-3753
*Midwest Faceter's Guild, E-mail: tgibbs@compuserve.com
*Mid-Williamette Faceters Guild, Albany, Oregon, Michael E. Bumcrot;
E-mail @ MBumcrot@valleyoilco.com
*Moreton Bay is a branch of the Australian Facetors' Guild, Brisbane,
Queensland. http://cwpp.slq.qld.gov.au/afg
*New Mexico Faceter's Guild, Nancy Attaway, attaway@highfiber.com
*North Puget Sound Faceting Guild, Keith Wyman, tfw@fidalgo.net
*Tacoma Faceting Guild, Chuck Bloch chuck_b@prodigy.net
*Texas Faceter's Guild, Jill Rowlands, gemsbyj@aol.com
*Seattle Faceting Club (LeonardBahr@prodigy.net)
*United States Faceting Guild (Keith Wyman, tfw@fidalgo.net)
*Vancouver Island Faceters' Guild - British Columbia, Canada.

(Add your faceting organization here, US or International - Write to
( owner-lapidary@caprock-spur.com or owner-faceters@caprock-spur.com )



A farmer was milking his cow. He was just starting to get a good rhythm going
when a bug flew into the barn and started circling his head. Suddenly, the bug
flew into the cow's ear. The farmer didn't think much about it, until the bug
squirted out into his bucket. It went in one ear and out the udder.



" If opportunity doesn't knock, build a door."

--- Author Unknown ---



I've lowered the price on my large lapidary unit to $700 which includes a
lot of extras and I'll even throw in the table it is sitting on. A
lapidary friend in Salem tells me this is a real good buy for somebody.
If I don't sell it by Xmas then I'll move it from Salem, OR to SC with


I have a lap I'm hoping to swap with someone on the list, in exchange
for faceting rough. The lap in question is a Crystalite 260-mesh "Dot Disc"
WITHOUT CENTER HOLE (ideal for someone who cuts on either a Facetron,
Crystalite "Crystal Master" or any brand of 8" cabbing equipment with a
1/4"x20 tapped screw holder at arbor's end). I'd received this as payment
for some faceting lessons, last summer, and which has only been gently used
once (literally). This lap is great for speedy stock removal, especially of
large, included areas of rough. The reason I'm unloading it is that it fits
neither my Ultra Tec nor Lee faceters, nor my 6" cabbing setup. (Sure does
make a nice paperweight, though!)
At last check, laps like this listed around $150 and sold around $90;
I'm looking for one or more nice pieces of faceting rough, to total ~$75, or
thereabouts. (Beryls, fancy (orange, pink, green or yellow) Garnets, nodular
Tourmalines and clean Sapphires are my first picks but, if you can use this
lap, let me know what you have and we'll take it from there.)

Many thanks, in advance,

Douglas Turet, GJ
Lapidary Artist, Designer & Goldsmith.
Turet Design
P. O. Box 162
Arlington, MA 02476
Tel. (617) 325-5328
Fax: (928) 222-0815
Email: anotherbrightidea@hotmail.com


Subject: Offset Preformer for sale
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 22:08:41 -0500
To: LapidaryArtsDigest <lapidary@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Robert Edgar, Jr" <edgarr@mccc.edu>

Graves sells an Offset Preformer for $46.95. We have one that was used
one time. We would like to sell it for $25.00. This includes all of
the original instruction sheets and the cost of shipping to any of the
"Lower 48". Contact me offline if you are interested.
Bob Edgar GSJ Lapidary


Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 16:40:35 EST
To: lapidary@caprock-spur.com
From: ACMEMINER2@aol.com

Howdy Folks!

I have a couple items that would make a great gift for the
lapidarist/collector on your shopping list this year!

Gem display cases and a great VHS video on mining gemstones in America!
It will take you to some famous Tourmaline mines in Main and California. Red
Emerald in Utah. Sleeping Beauty mine in Arizona for Turquoise and Peridot
on the San Carlos reservation. Sunstone in Oregon and much more!

You can see my items on my specials page at this link.






Subject: Advertisement
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 12:12:01 EST
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: GEMARTSERV@aol.com

Books by Glenn and Martha Vargas : In time for CHRISTMAS

Faceting For Amateurs, Third Edtion $35
Diagrams Volume I $30
Diagrams Volume II $30
Diagrams Volume III $30
Descriptions of Gem Materials, Third Edition $25
Calif. residents please add 7.75% sales tax

Media mail rates: Fac. for Amat. $2.26
Others $1.84
Any two $3.10
Will advise on non US delivery
Contact Jerry Newman at: gemartserv@aol.com

PS regarding the Vargas Pol-A-Gem laps: They are all gone for this season.
Glenn has agreed to make more in the spring when the weather warms up in our
desert; and will make Alumina-B as well as Cerium Oxide. I will post to the
list when more become available. Thanks to all who ordered over the last few


Subject: FS
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 23:15:39 -0500
To: <faceters@caprock-spur.com>
From: "Tyler Allen" <t.allen@mindspring.com>

I had a Nigerian friend of mine send me some rough that he needs to blow
out. I have two kilos of Peach colored Zircon with a little red also
mostly to cut melee but there are a lot of large stones as well in the
parcel. Also, I have 200 grams of dark blue Indicolite Tourmaline
thats needs to be heat treated, last of all a parcel of 50 grams of
assorted pink/red colored Tourmaline. Make offers.

Tyler Allen


Rough to Cut
If you're looking for quality facet rough please check out Rough to Cut,
http://www.roughtocut.com. We offer a wide range of quality facet rough
from Aquamarine to Zircon. Large selections in stock currently of Beryl,
Garnets & Tourmalines. Please check us out & when you do, why not give a
try to our contest, you could win a 5ct + piece of Spessartite garnet
facet rough.

Rough to Cut


Subject: AD
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 20:50:44 -0800
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: "P. Miklik" <b-daw@pacbell.net>

Contact b-daw@pacbell.net

Honey, red & brown zircons, 10g parcels @$20/parcel

Red Garnet $8/g, eye clean-slightly included
Spessartine Garnet $7.50/g, slight-moderately included
Malaya Garnet $6/g, good eye clean roughs
Tunduri Garnet $10/g, eye clean-slightly included

Pink Tourmaline $20/g, eye clean-slightly included
Red Tourmaline $10/g, slight-moderately included
Bicolor Tourmaline $15/g, eye clean
Watermelon Tourmaline $20/g eye clean
Green/Green Blue Tourmaline $10/g, eye clean roughs

Blue, Green & Blue/Green Sapphires $35/g, eye clean-slightly
included, up to 1g.

Blue Beryl (Aquamarine) $6/g, eye clean-slightly included crystals
Green Beryl (Emerald) $10-$50/g, eye clean-slightly included crystals,
zoned green
Cabbing Grade Aquamarine $3/g


Rock Peddler
Complete online discount catalog for cabbing and faceting machines, wheels,
laps, polishes, diamond saws, diamond blades, and general lapidary supplies
at http://www.rockpeddler.com.


Gewelers Gems
e-mail: sales@jewelersgems.com
Solid copper laps 1/4 thick 8" and 6" you can charge both sides with
diamond. http://www.jewelersgems.com/faceting_laps.htm


NOW ONLINE! RRGaetan Gem Rough - Featuring excellent, facet-grade,
Colombian Emerald rough! PLUS, Chrome Tourmaline, Achroite Tourmaline,
Golden Chrome Tourmaline, Aquamarine, Spess, Mint and Malaya Garnets,
and more! For photos and more information, visit us at rrgaetan.com.




For All National and International Masters, Past-Masters and
World-Class Cutters:

This post is simply a reminder that in 2003 the USFG will host its
first National and International Faceting Competition. It is called
the North American Faceting Challenge -- 'NAFC.' Since the designs
and rules were first published in the 2001 September Issue of the
USFG's Newsletter, and since they have not been published since 2001,
some of you, who are most capable - skill-wise, may not
know about the competition, and some of you may have forgotten. The
"NAFC" is an OPEN Competition. Please note: The designs and rules
can be downloaded at <http://www.usfacetersguild.org/events.shtml>.
The closing date is June 20th, 2003; the amount of time between the
present date and June 20th, 2003 should be enough for all Master
cutters to cut the two required designs -- Fred Van Sant's "Four
Star," and Charles Covill's "Wind Wheel No. 2." If further
information is needed, please contact me at <clmoon@pacbell.net>.

Charlie Moon


Subject: First USFG faceting list design competition.
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 16:29:21 -0800
To: faceters@caprock-spur.com
From: Dan Clayton <dclayton@speakeasy.org>

First USFG faceting list design competition.

Design: Hexagon or Hexagon Cushion in Colorless or Colored Topaz

Judging: Highest number for total ISO values at 0, 10, 20,30, 40
and 50 degree tilt with five degree head shadow in GemFramx will
win. Example parameters are given below to achieve this configuration.
Online designs must be submitted by January 10, 2003. Design and
cut entries should have the design posted by that date but stone judging
will take place at the OPLC Hobnob in Tucson in February 2003.

Publication: All entries will be posted on the USFG faceting list site
and possibly on the USFG site as well. Designs may be included in
a USFG list CD. Designers maintain copyright to their designs but
must allow posting on the USFG faceting list site. Posting or publishing
elsewhere is not only permitted but encouraged.

Followup: Additional contests may be held for other shapes and
materials if there is sufficient interest and participation.

RI 1.61
head shadow 5 degrees
ignore glare no (default)
tilt movie yes (default)
starting tilt direction 0
ending tilt direction 5 (default)
maximum tilt angle 50
tilt increment 10
suppress VGA no (default)
concave no (default)
COS files no (default)
ISO files no ( you can enter yes if you wish
but it will fill your disk )
DISP files no (default)
exit files no (default)
starting file # increment each run if you wish to save images

Values for ISO will be summed and used as ISO total.
ISO Total will be deciding factor in judging but there will be 30
points deducted for a missed meetpoint. Fractional

Special recognition will be given to most original design as determined
by team of four judges selected by Jeff Ford or delegate/s.


all work must be done by one individual. In the
case of a fractional indices or an incomplete design a design
coach will explain how the problem can be fixed and the
entry will be moved to Coached class.

more than one individual from a club, guild or area may work together
as a team. If an individual wishes coaching they may do so but most
work must be done by the entrant with only suggestions by coach. This
means Fred Van Sant or some other designer can not do a design that you
enter as your own. I encourage friends, club/guild members to enter as a
team. Do not hesitate to enter if you need some coaching. We have design
mentors who are happy to help you.

for a public domain design or a copyrighted design that the copyright holder
gives you permission to use. You enter design with modified angles, new tiers
or deleted tiers which gives "optimum" performance as determined by ISO
total. We will post at least two very basic designs you can enhance as you

Design and Cut,
design will be posted and ISO Total noted but beauty of the finished stone
will be the judging criteria. Stones will be judged at the OPLC Hobnob in
Tucson. Individual, Team/Coached and Modified designs will be judged

I hope this format will encourage design and optimization oldtimers and
newcomers to get involved and hopefully develop their skills. All
entries will be posted on the site and may drive some traffic and interest.
I think ISO Total is as good as any single value to evaluate design
performance but we will look to improve criteria in the future.

Dan Clayton




Tomoka Gem and Mineral Society's annual show will be held on Dec. 14 and 15 at
the Volusia County Fairgrounds, located on state route 44 in Deland, Florida.
Fairgrounds are 1 mile east of interstate route 4 at exit 118. We will have at
least one showcase of faceted gems done by our members. Thank you, John Withey



Presented by the Faceter's Guild of Southern California
At the Seaside GEMboree AFMS/CFMS Convention & Show
Ventura, California June 6-7-8, 2003

You are invited to participate in the Faceters
Symposium 2003 which will be held at the Seaside Park
(Ventura Fairgrounds) at Ventura, California during the
AFMS/CFMS Convention & Show. The Faceters Symposium dates
are June 6th, 7th, & 8th. That is Friday, Saturday, &
Sunday. The CFMS GEMboree is on those dates as well as on
Thursday the 5th of June. All of this is at the same
location, just a hundred yards from the beach.

The Faceters Symposium will feature ten speakers, who
will have presentations covering various parts of gemstone
faceting interests. A Hospitality Hour on Friday evening
and a Saturday Awards Luncheon are also part of the
Symposium. There will be competitions at the Novice,
Advanced, & Masters levels. Get started on your
competition entry soon.

The CFMS GEMboree itself will have buildings that have
exhibits on display, dealers with their wares to offer,
demonstrators to show how it is done, and speakers with
presentations covering other lapidary fields of interest.

For information & costs regarding the Faceters
Symposium (including competition information), your contact
is listed below. Ask for one of the Packets. Be sure to
state your snail mailing address so that a Packet can be
mailed to you.

Glenn Klein, Chairman
24001 Muirlands Blvd., Space #79
Lake Forest, CA 92630 email: glennklein@yahoo.com


The Middle Tennessee Gem & Mineral Society, Inc. announces their
22nd annual "Earth Treasures" Jewelry, Gem, Mineral and Fossil Show.
There will be door prizes, auctions, exhibits, demonstrations and 30
dealers from around the US.

The MTG&MS is a not-for-profit educational society, made up of local
members from around Middle Tennessee, interested in the study, collection
and understanding of minerals, the earth's geological history, jewelry
making, and the polishing of gem stones. The profit from this annual
show and sale go to fund nine (9) scholarships at regional universities,
along with two Tennessee Elementary Schooll Earth Science projects
and two middle Tennessee Senior Citizens workshop programs.

Date: December 14-15, 2002

Time: 9 AM-6 PM Saturday & 10 AM-5 PM Sunday

Place: Creative Arts Building, Tennessee State Fairgrounds, Nashville, Tennessee

Admission: $2.00 Adults, $0.50 High School Students, Under 12 free with an adult

Contact: Will Smith (615) 366-1022 Show Chairperson

Web Site: www.mtgms.org Email: willsmith.2@comcastnet

Exhibits: Show cases of Fossils, Minerals, Jewelry, cut and polished gemstones

Including local Elmwood minerals from the zinc mines at Carthage and beautiful
Tennessee Paint Rock Agate from the mountains of Middle Tennessee

Demonstrations: Silversmithing, beading, wire wrapping, flint knapping and faceting

Other activities: Hourly door prizes and silent auctions

Dealers will offer:

Gold and silver jewelry, mountings and repair

Colored gem stones & diamonds, loose or mounted in jewelry

Crystals and minerals from around the world including our local-world renowned
golden calcites from Carthage

Fossils and artifacts including dinosaur life, marine life and prehistoric arrowheads,
along with modern flint knapping

Tools and supplies for the above

Feel free to call if you have any questions. We appreciate your help and support.



KANSAS: If anyone in the central portion of the country from Oklahoma city
to Wichita to Kansas City would be interested in forming something like the
Flatland Facet Guild or some such name give me a line at
Larry W. Davis

ILLINOIS - MISSOURI (Central Area, hubed around St. Louis, Missouri) A
group of 4 faceters have met and we had a great time. We intend to meet
again and would like to have fellow faceters join our group. I received an
email from another Newbie that expressed interest in attending our next get
together. Faceters from any and all areas are welcome... It's swell to meet
personally and exchange tips and hints! COME JOIN OUR GROUP! It's FREE! ;o)
Doug Smith, Alton, IL .at: gembin@spiff.net

INDIANA: I moved to Valparaiso, (Northwest) Indiana, about three years ago.
Are there any clubs in this area? or is there anyone interested in starting
one? I do faceting and some cabbing. Not much here but cornfields. Nice
scenery, but I get sooooooo lonely. LOL Let me know. (Bill) "William
J.Pysnack" <wjpin@home.com>

S.E. LOUISIANA: Anyone in or around the New Orleans, LA area wishing to
form a club or have get togethers for faceting, discussions, cabbing,
procurement, etc. Please contact me via email @ tbird@bayouself.org. (Thom
Bird - Chalmette, LA)

MISSISSIPPI: If anyone is near Meridian Mississippi and would be interested
in forming some kind of club or just get together with faceting and/or
cabbing please e-mail me at jennings@netdoor.com Thanks, Jim

TEXAS: Anyone in the Corpus Christi or Coastal Bend area that is interested
in starting a local faceter's guild contact me at: hankswan@earthlink.net or
gemscc@msn.com or telephone 361-857-2405 (days) or 361-992-1296
(evenings).Hank swan

WASHINGTON DC.(Rockville Md area) Looking for folks to get together
occasionally to facet. I have just started faceting and am also interested
in sphere making (infinate # of facets) Robert Winfield

Lurking is fine, but participation is more fun!! Get involved!!



Thurmond Moore III/ Moderator

Fred Ward / Moderator - Gemology

Tempie Francis, Attorney at Law / Legal Advisor


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